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Gnar Wall
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Crest Chewel 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Walt enjoying the big holds. August 2012.


One of the better 5.9s at El Rito, however, it may be just a little scary for the 5.9 leader down low due to moderately long spacing between bolts. There are, however, bolts where you need them. Has a nice little overhung section, which is unusual at the 5.9 grade. Start on the arete on the right side of the wall (right next to the corridor), and move to the right through the overhang. Shares anchors with Tooth Fairy.


5 bolts to anchors

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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Maybe the newest route at El Rito. Easy start like 6-7. Fun route for newer leaders. Crux is 9+ but short.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 21, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very fun route. Can't in good conscience give it 3 stars due to the crappy third bolt. It's in solid and doesn't wobble (it's a Rawl), but it protrudes from the rock face by 3/4 of an inch. Whoever bolted it didn't take the time to make sure the hole was drilled deep enough.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009

Someone fixed the bolt last mentioned cause I didn't see that. I thought the start was the crux and quite runout for a nine leader. Maybe I just didn't find the right holds, as usual. After that, nothing but big holds, just hard to see at first cause of the shade.
By JoshuaJones
From: Albuquerque
Sep 25, 2012

Fun sport climb with an interesting crux move over a small overhanging section. I would not want to take a lead fall after the second bolt as you may hit the ledge. The bolt there is hanging out of the rock about a 1/4" Excellent climb.
By Finn Foster
Oct 12, 2015

I wouldn't call it run-out, but the bolts are a little more spread out than other routes on the Ganr Wall. The third bolt is in the wall solidly, but the hanger moves freely 1" in between the bolt head and the cobblestone wall. It doesn't feel comfy, but it is sturdy and my partner and I both climbed it. Pretty cool movement though.

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