|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Dec 10, 2001|
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 24, 2002
My partner and I did this on the morning of August 6th, before I had to go to work and he had to leave to drive to the East Coast. It really is a spectacular wide crack, though I mostly just face climbed next to it, only squiriming into the crack once in a while to place pro.
Here's my advice for this route:If you happen to have any 11 Hexcentrics, bring them along. Lots of partners have mocked my cowbells, but this is one route where it was really nice to have a couple big hexes. If your plan is approach this route in the dark and get up it before work, I'd recommend scoping it out ahead of time. Looking at the West Ironing Board from the summit of the Third, you really can't appreciate what a character-building experience the hike in will be, especially on-sight, in the dark. Luckily, my employers are pretty cool about this kind of thing, because the whole endeavor took something like two and a half hours more than we expected and I didn't show up for work until 10:00.
You can see this route all the way from Baseline, so it's a good one to have under your belt to impress attractive non-climbers in town.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
A 70m rope still requires some simul-climbing to get to a solid and comfortable belay on a combination of 1ea #4 and old #4 Camalots. An 80m rope would reach better.
A second pitch get you completely off anything past 3rd class, and from there you can either set an anchor (large stoppers or 2nd knuckle-cams) to rap off East/Northeast (then scramble down to packs for another route) or find or improvise a rap off to the West and walk back around (15-20 min).
As for rack, I took #0.4-0.#5 Camalots (new C4) and was fine with that. I got enough pro to be OK. People who don't want to run it out 70' to the first piece might want to take the #6 C4.
To that end, my partner DID break off a cobble on second and slip 50' up. Yeah... not a great idea on lead. Most of the route is solid, but there is grounder potential if you are not careful. The #6 is probably a good idea unless you are under no illusions. It's no different than soloing much of the way without it.