Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hound Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye to the West T 
Crescent Wrench T 
Direct Wrench TR 
Over The Hill T 
Tossed Green T 
White Powder T 

Crescent Wrench 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Wrench (5.10d), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This is the thin aching crack visible as you first reach the rock. Thin crack, thin gear, thin feet - thin! Easy walk-off to the climber's left.

Location 

The left side of Hound Rock's east face.

Protection 

Small cams, stoppers


Comments on Crescent Wrench Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

On the sharp end this things works out to a .10+.
By Randy
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A different experience on lead/follow as placing (or even removing) gear is strenuous.
By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Crescent Wrench is definitely 10d on lead. This is a perfect example of why route ratings based on a TR ascent are irrelevant when compared to the difficulty of an onsight attempt on lead.
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Short but engaging, especially if on lead. Two stars out of five.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Apr 4, 2009

Super pumpy for me, I made big (the move) runout (up 5 over 10 ft) moves of desperation at the end. I'm confident at 10a, still have a hard time with 10b, and can pull 10c with some strain. I thought this was 10c...It wasn't.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Always a tough tic for me and no way I'm leading it. Hard moves right to the finishing jugs.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 13, 2012

Too much beta alert: Recommend multiple 1" pieces (i.e. 2x orange metolius tcus are nice to have). I've led this a couple of times (after having followed it previously), and while the tech crux is about midway, the redpoint crux is probably the last move going left before the finishing jug. What makes this kind of hard for the grade is that the pro takes a little work to place from less than restful positions and isn't always the most inspiring (adequate, though). For such a short route, by the time you fiddle the gear in, it feels enduro.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 13, 2012

Way fun, way hard, way short. Don't miss trying a TR of Direct Wrench while you're there. The rope is already up and it delivers the full josh fukness experience.