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Crescent Spire

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Energy Crisis T 
McTech Arete T 
McTech Roof T 
Paddle Flake Direct T 
Surprisingly Subsevere T 
Westside Story T 
Woza Moya T 
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Crescent Spire  


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Location: 50.74999, -116.7767 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,349
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
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Leading the second pitch of McTech Arete.

Description 

The Crescent Spire is located to the north of the Applebee campground between the Bugaboo Spire to the west and the Crescent Towers to the east. It has numerous 5 to 6 pitch 5.10's with McTech Arete and Paddle Flake being the most popular by far. Due to it's easy approach, short routes and bolted rap anchors (which you only need one 60m rope for) it makes a perfect crag for mediocre weather or rest days.

Getting There 

If approaching from the Kain hut the best option is to head toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col but turn right before you get to the col and follow the Crescent Glacier to the spire.

From the Applebee campground walk toward the east side of camp and look for a trail that climbs north onto the moraine. Follow the trail around the west side of the first lake you come to and around the east side of the second lake. Then straight north up the Crescent Glacier.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Spire:
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Crescent Spire

Featured Route For Crescent Spire
At the wide part of McTech Roof.

McTech Roof 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Crescent Spire
P1:Head up easy but slightly spooky flakes to a short, steep handcrack. Pull through this(technical crux) to the base of the obvious large roof and a great rest. Lieback out through the roof with good, but spread-out feet, saving juice for the awkard and strenous lip encounter.Pull over the lip on perfect hands and bad/high feet and then cruise up the easy but excellent hand crack. Walk over the top of the flake and down to a ledge with a two bolt anchor."P2" Walk to the flake you climbed over o...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Crescent Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching Crescent Spire.
Approaching Crescent Spire.
Crescent Spire south face.
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Spire south face.
Andrew G. loving the perfect hands on the McTech
Andrew G. loving the perfect hands on the McTech
Climbers on Energy Crisis and a 10+ roof on the le...
Climbers on Energy Crisis and a 10+ roof on the le...

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