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Crescent Spire

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Energy Crisis 
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Crescent Spire 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
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Leading the second pitch of McTech Arete.

Description 

The Crescent Spire is located to the north of the Applebee campground between the Bugaboo Spire to the west and the Crescent Towers to the east. It has numerous 5 to 6 pitch 5.10's with McTech Arete and Paddle Flake being the most popular by far. Due to it's easy approach, short routes and bolted rap anchors (which you only need one 60m rope for) it makes a perfect crag for mediocre weather or rest days.


Getting There 

If approaching from the Kain hut the best option is to head toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col but turn right before you get to the col and follow the Crescent Glacier to the spire.

From the Applebee campground walk toward the east side of camp and look for a trail that climbs north onto the moraine. Follow the trail around the west side of the first lake you come to and around the east side of the second lake. Then straight north up the Crescent Glacier.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Spire:
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Crescent Spire

Featured Route For Crescent Spire
Crux 4th pitch.

Paddle Flake Direct 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Crescent Spire
This is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and be...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Crescent Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching Crescent Spire.
Approaching Crescent Spire.
Crescent Spire south face.
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Spire south face.
Andrew G. loving the perfect hands on the McTech
Andrew G. loving the perfect hands on the McTech
Climbers on Energy Crisis and a 10+ roof on the left.
Climbers on Energy Crisis and a 10+ roof on the le...
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