Crescent Rock squeezes around thirty climbs onto a small cliff face. While most of the routes here are top rope climbs, there are a few quality trad leads. The south facing cliff receives plenty of sunshine throughout the entire day. This makes for great climbing in the fall, winter, and spring. There is no problem climbing here in the summer as long as like the Virginia heat. Make sure you beat the heat and bring your own water, there is no natural water supply in the area.
Climbs range from 5.8 (The Dish) to grueling 5.12d (Litigiousness Psychosis). Since the crag is close to a few metropolitan areas it tends to get a little crowded during the weekends. Consider sharing ropes with another group or you could get stuck on one route for a little while.
Coming from the East on VA Route 7 you will make a right onto Raven Rock Rd. This is at the very top of the mountain, if you miss is you will have to make a u-turn. Drive Raven Rock Rd until it crosses into West Virginia, and turns into a dirt road (approx. 1 mile). You will see a large steel gate that is blocking another gravel road. Park near the gate. DO NOT block the gate or in any way block the road. Park to the side and keep you car out of the way. Also, do not try to find a way around the gate, many have tried this and been ticketed. Hike the gated gravel road, you will pass a large cell tower. When you reach the hill after the cell tower, continue straight until you run into the Appalatian Trail. This is be blazed with white paint. Make a left onto the AT and hike to the crag.
Starts below an obvious overhang on the right side of the wall. There will also be a tree behind you when you are on the route. Begin on small holds and liebacks until you reach the roof. Take a good test and begin working crimps and pinches to pull the roof. Make use of a knee bar under the roof. Finding feet over the roof is the crux of the route. Once over the roof follow easier moves to the top....[more]Browse More Classics in VA
Do not use the parking area on Raven Rock road. Everyone that parked there on 6 apr 14 got a ticket even though we were in the area without no parking signs. Hopefully it will be thrown out in court but still what a pain.