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Wasp Whisperer 

Crescent Moon 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009
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Dan Foster on Crescent Moon

Description 

A fine pitch despite the blocky start. Start right of The Harder They Come, in a scrappy dihedral with a sycamore growing out of it. Move up past blocks and left under roofs. Get established in the steep fingers of a left facing dihedral. A #0 and #2 TCU give you some comfort in the beginning of the fingers and be ready with a couple more #2 TCUs as you continue up. After the fingers section you will pass a horizontal break and a hands pod- #2 Camalot. Rest up and start looking for thin wires above you. Be ready to place and trust several #2 stoppers. A move up will allow you to place a #3 stopper. Be smart with you feet and pull through the crux placing another REALLY good #5 stopper or similar sized offset. One or two more #1 TCUs will give you a sense of solidity as you crank off the airy last moves to the anchors.


Location 

To the right of The Harder They Come.


Protection 

The whole range of TCUs bulking up on the finger sizes, A #2 camalot will find a home mid route. Small, medium wires.



Photos of Crescent Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Keith Beckley staring down the crux.
Keith Beckley staring down the crux.
Comments on Crescent Moon Add Comment
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By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Several 11's up here don't give me the problems this route does... And on tricky tiny gear at the crux. Just sayin.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2014

It's what I would call "sequential", with both the moves and gear....