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DescriptionThe climbing here consists of both sport and trad, mostly trad.The rock is bomber granite, similar to the rest of the canyon. Some of the classic routes are: Mexican Crack (.10a), Crescent Crack (5.7), Crack in the Woods (5.9), and Hand Jive (5.8?).You can rappel most routes from the top of the climbs with a single rope, except Crescent Crack, which is descended east into a gully. Buy beer at 7-11 at the base of BCC, or better yet, go to Wyoming! Getting TherePark in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the Cresent Crack Buttress. Take the left fork and a short jaunt leads you to the base of Waterslide. Head left for the climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Crack Buttress:
Crescent Crack 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Lazarus 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Hand Jive 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Crack in the Woods 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Final Link 5.9 Trad, 120 feet
3 Amigos 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Lunge or Plunge 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Missing Link 5.10 R Trad, 3 pitches
Multiplicity 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Who's On First 5.10d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Grunting Gringos 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Closet Lycra 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
No Jive Arete 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
If Looks Could Kill 5.11d R Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For Crescent Crack Buttress
Mexican Crack 5.10a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Crescent Crack Buttress
Mexican Crack is located toward the west side of Crescent Crack Buttress. It is the obvious left slanting crack seen from the road. Usually crowded. Start in dihedral up to jugs and pull onto face, delicately run up the seamy cracks to the leftward turn, smear feet below crack with hands in the crack to the chains. Good foot work saves the arms for the top of the route....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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