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Candyman S 
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Crescent Corner S 
Deal, The S 
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Crescent Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Peterson and Helmut Husmen, 1971
Page Views: 3,973
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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First lead at the Garden.
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Crescent Corner will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route works its way up blocky roofs on the right side of the wall.

I have actually never done the second pitch of this climb. Probably not many have, it is loose and follows the seam up to the anchors for Rocket Fuel. Add an R rating to this climb if you decide to attempt it. The first pitch is excellent as you move your way up a slab to these cool block formations that you have to step over. Move into a washed out crack to the slings. The only thing to watch out for is the old pins that you use for protection. They seem stable, but I wouldn't put outward pressure on them.


Protection 

8 pins. Don't pull outwards on any of them. Either stop at some slings or continue to the Rocket Fuel cable anchor.

Addendum: Crescent Corner has new anchors as of July, 2005. Brian Shelton, Stewart Green and CJ Sidebottom removed the old anchors and replaced them with new, modern 1/2" stainless steel bolts and hardware which were placed 8 feet higher in better rock.



Photos of Crescent Corner Slideshow Add Photo
If you blow the second clip....   <br />Helmets people. Helmets!
BETA PHOTO: If you blow the second clip....
Helmets people. ...
Jon Cannon hefting lard up Crescent Corner.
Jon Cannon hefting lard up Crescent Corner.
Steve on Cresent Corner.
Steve on Cresent Corner.
Mike leading the Crescent Corner, Garden of the Gods.
Mike leading the Crescent Corner, Garden of the Go...
Jason Alexander working Crescent Corner (5.9), Garden of the Gods, Colorado.
Jason Alexander working Crescent Corner (5.9), Gar...
Jeff Schlosser leading his way up Cresent Corner.
Jeff Schlosser leading his way up Cresent Corner.
Crescent Corner.
Crescent Corner.
Kind of a fun photo that I took from the top of Cresent Corner looking down.
Kind of a fun photo that I took from the top of Cr...
Logan Berndt on Crescent Corner.
Logan Berndt on Crescent Corner.
Tobias kicking it TR style.
Tobias kicking it TR style.
Sara Berg, Crescent Corner. Oct. 2013.
Sara Berg, Crescent Corner. Oct. 2013.
Comments on Crescent Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 23, 2014
By Sean O'Dell
Mar 6, 2002

Really nice climb. The route follows the VERY obvious crack/flake at the far right side of the north face of South gateway rock. What's cool about this route is its consistency - the layback/stemming type moves you start with are the name of the game all the way to the anchors. That makes for a fairly pumpy climb (at least for my weak ass), but definately fun.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 23, 2002

I agree. Laybacking and stemming work well on Cresent Corner. The 'tin can' bolt after the first anchor looks somewhat sketchy, though.

By Sean O'Dell
May 15, 2002

As of 5/12/02, there are no slings at the ancors - just 3 big ol' cold-shuts. Bring gear accordingly.

By Darin Lang
Jun 2, 2002

A full value 5.9. Don't blow the clip on the second drilled pin.

By Jon Cannon
Jun 5, 2002

Very strenuous route for those of us who are less graceful on our feet. Don't forget the right side of the corner -- it will sometimes afford good holds just when you thought you were screwed.

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Aug 30, 2002

Just a few things to add to the splendid adive given above. Some buddies of mine who are not accustomed to routes of this degree found some extra protection by bringing a #3 cam along. You can put it in after the second bolt to protect that tricky little roof section. You can leave it or back clean and use it once more . The piton scars make for some sweet little monos. You don't really weight them that much, but they make you feel cool. I heard Jon finally lead this one. I'm not sure what to think about that Darin. Later

By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Oct 22, 2002

Be careful around theseocnd pin...it seems to be a bit loose. Loose pins can be a bit scary....

By Jeremy Maddamma
Sep 2, 2003

Anchor bolts atop Crescent Corner are very loose, one is sticking out about halfway, the other one is a serious spinner.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 6, 2003

Leading both Crescent Corner and Credibility Gap, rated the same degree of difficulty in my guide, in one afternoon was an informative experience for me. Crescent looked scary as hell to me - jagged, steep, menacing. It's not really, though I didn't realize this until I was clipped into the anchors. The holds are generous and the protection is all there. My throat went dry around the second bolt regardless, and legions of tourists who heard me choke out 'watch me!' various times must have thought Tom Waits was spending a day climbing. Credibility Gap, however, which looks pretty benign, isn't, in my opinion. It's hard, or at least, its crux is harder than anything to be found on Crescent Corner. Throwing another Garden .9+ into this comparitive analysis, Trigger Finger, west of the Boot Crack, was an easier lead for me than the Gap but harder than Crescent.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 17, 2003

Don't be dissuaded from doing this route because of safety issues - at least, don't be more concerned than you are on any Garden pitch. It felt safe to me, maybe even overprotected. If there's one pin whose aspect you don't like, chances are there'll be another one two moves away. There is so much steel, some of it chopped but still ugly, in some sections that it feels like you're climbing a vertical train track. Do this route because it has good moves and asks you for footwork, not because it's pretty.

By Larry Shaw
May 28, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good short pumpy route. The anchor consists of two spinner bolts and a solid piton. If I had any tubular I would try to equalize the anchor to make it safer.

By pancho
Aug 16, 2004

I felt rather safe on this climb to be honest, never more than a few feet from a pin. I do agree though that all of the metal on this route isn't the greatest, but oh well.

By Darin Lang
Aug 16, 2004

I agree that the climb is safe, with a lot of steel. My comment above about the second pin, however, still stands. If you blow this clip, it would not be a long fall, but rather one of those short little awkward whippers that could result in a broken ankle.

By Joel Bier
Sep 15, 2004

Don't confuse the slings on a crappy pothole on the second pitch for the second anchor or else you'll be running it out to the Rocket Fuel/Mighty Thor anchors - which by the way is loose sketchy and have major whipper potential with a large rock formation to abruptly stop your swinging fall. I knocked a rock the size of a bowling ball loose today on the second pitch and there are a ton more up there just like it. The first pitch is bomber, though.

By Travis
Nov 11, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Gear Alert

I only went to the first pitch. On the start of the route, the slabs are covered with lichen, and it is pretty slippery up to the first clip. Leading this route kicked my butt due to the angle of the first few slabs and the slime on the rock. After the first two clips, it is easier going. There are a few horizontal cracks before the first clip where a "pinky" 0.5 tri-cam and 1.5-2.0 tri-cam fit perfectly, for added protection and less sphincter tension upon the lead climber. Everyone else in the party had a blast with little slipping (I cleaned the route off for them with all my slipping around). I only found one wiggly piton right before the anchors which have been replaced and are bomb-proof.

By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2005

Crescent Corner has new anchors as of July, 2005. Brian Shelton, Stewart Green and CJ Sidebottom removed the old anchors and replaced them with new, modern 1/2" stainless steel bolts and hardware which were placed 8 feet higher in better rock. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the gear to replace these and other Garden anchors!

By Stewart M. Green
Apr 20, 2006

Thanks for your comments. The old anchors did suck and were very easy to remove, and given that Crescent Corner gets a lot of traffic, it was prudent to add new ones. Likewise we wanted to replace them in the same place, but the rock right there is not good and has some hollow sections, so we opted to place them higher...only another 8 feet...where they would be in better sandstone.

The anchors for the route really should be at the top of the corner, all the way up by Mighty Thor's anchors, since that is where the route originally went, and the old lower anchors completely eliminated. They were only placed there, because some bozo was afraid to do the whole route. So, we added another 8 feet of climbing that is basically the same as the rest of the lower section. Why not maximize the climbing experience anyway? Once enough folks climb that little 8-foot section, it will resemble the lower part.

About the chains and hangers, you are welcome to camo them yourself with a can of spray paint. You are also welcome to fill in those holes from the old anchors as well as the hundred other holes in the Garden. I suggest you contact the CS Park and Recreation Department on Glen Avenue and ask them what would be an acceptable compound to fill in the holes and would be compatible with the color and texture of the sandstone...and get to work!

Since we replaced those and other anchors in the Garden last year, I have talked to many climbers out there for their opinions and everyone was supportive of our efforts to improve the ancient anchor situation at The Garden. Particularly on the more commonly climbed routes. All of us involved in replacing the anchors and some of the old fixed pitons, with the advocacy of the CS parks department who want the place safer than it has been, welcome input, comments, and yes, even constructive criticism. If you or anyone else wants to simply bitch and whine about it, then go ahead. But you can also be part of the solution by actually getting off your butt and going out and doing something for the greater good of our local climbing community.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 29, 2008

Very nice anchors on this route now. I can only imagine what the holds were like when it was first put up, ha. Kind of slopy and not-so-positive here and there. An exciting lead for the grade for sure.

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 17, 2008

Great run. Well protected you might want to skip some pins, for more excitment, but the crux is before the last bolt, and the anchor is bomb.

By GMBurns
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Pumpy, but if you stem out left, then the route gets easier.

By James Tilton
From: Durango, CO
Jun 23, 2014

Classic route of the Garden. Has a cool series of moves to start with some thinner holds and more stemming problems up towards the top. All around, a great route that will keep you on your toes the first couple of times you do it.