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Crepes Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 3,278
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Crepes Corner


This is the prominent, right facing corner, on the left side of the slab (Pie Face) above Lunch Rock. Kinda classic, a really fun solo and downclimb!


Pro to 2".


There are three ways to get to the base of the main corner:

1) Climb up the wide crack directly below the corner.
2) Climb knobs directly above lunch Ledge, 5.7 to 5.8, no pro.
3) Chimney horizontally behind the big flake at the base of the main slab, right of Lunch Box Rock.

Move right near the top to anchor. Rappel.

Photos of Crepes Corner Slideshow Add Photo
A somewhat thrutchy offwidth start (not in view he...
BETA PHOTO: A somewhat thrutchy offwidth start (not in view he...
"Crepes Corner". Photo by Blitzo.
"Crepes Corner". Photo by Blitzo.
An unusual late summer storm in the Sierras makes ...
An unusual late summer storm in the Sierras makes ...
Crepes Corner
BETA PHOTO: Crepes Corner

Comments on Crepes Corner Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 10, 2007

The area classic...
By 213blc
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun, all three approaches are a blast and the corner is excellent.
Dec 3, 2012

Yes a great route.. Ive soloed it and down climbed it.. The first one i did when visiting there in 76. clean as a whistle.
By Ed Henicle
Apr 21, 2014

We could not find the 'Horizontal chimney' so we started with the powerful lie back moves directly below the corner. The problem with this start: the belayer cannot see the climber when you are in the upper section of the corner, so we broke it into 2 pitches.

The Horizontal chimney is RIGHT of the lunch box rock. Scramble up right into some bushes, then you can see it. I will use this start next time.

From the start of Crepes, you can also do Fluted Crust/Knob Hill. Lead up and left into chimney, set belay at top, then top out by slinging knobs on 2nd pitch - fun!
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 18, 2015

Nice route! Led this yesterday on an incredibly nice day for mid-Feb. A somewhat awkward approach crack leads to the amazing corner. Protects like a dream with placements everywhere and anywhere. Go do it and have fun.
By Road
From: Stanton
Jul 26, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

started far to the right, first pitch was a interesting 4th class thing behind a flake climbing to the left. after that the climbing was fantastic.

The last few moves before you're pushed out onto the face are the hardest part (5.8 ish). If you're tall enough you can grab the left wall and make it a bit easier.
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