This is the prominent, right facing corner, on the left side of the slab (Pie Face) above Lunch Rock. Kinda classic, A really fun solo and downclimb!
There are three ways to get to the base of the main corner:
1) Climb up the wide crack directly below the corner.
2) Climb knobs directly above lunch Ledge, 5.7 to 5.8, no pro.
3) Chimney horizontally behind the big flake at the base of the main slab.
Move right near the top to anchor. Rappel.
Pro to 2".
BETA PHOTO: A somewhat thrutchy offwidth start (not in view he...
An unusual late summer storm in the Sierras makes ...
Mar 10, 2007
The area classic...
From: THA WEST COAST
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super fun, all three approaches are a blast and the corner is excellent.
Dec 3, 2012
Yes a great route.. Ive soloed it and down climbed it.. The first one i did when visiting there in 76. clean as a whistle.
|By Ed Henicle|
Apr 21, 2014
We could not find the 'Horizontal chimney' so we started with the powerful lie back moves directly below the corner. The problem with this start: the belayer cannot see the climber when you are in the upper section of the corner, so we broke it into 2 pitches.
The Horizontal chimney is RIGHT of the lunch box rock. Scramble up right into some bushes, then you can see it. I will use this start next time.
From the start of Crepes, you can also do Fluted Crust/Knob Hill. Lead up and left into chimney, set belay at top, then top out by slinging knobs on 2nd pitch - fun!