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The most obvious feature on this route is the second pitch's flake that in the span of but a few meters throws three devilishly difficult and different cruxes at you, all of which require a committed leader: crank off a finger lock to a high foot and undercling, layback a rounded edge with a barn-dooring feel and crumbling rock for a left foot, and then suck in your gut and rack to burrow behind the top lobe of the flake and decode a sequence to mount it.
P1) Scramble up an easy ramp to find a corner and left facing flake. Establish a gear belay (dual pitons in Ruckman guide were not to be found) on a ledge left of above-mentioned flake / 5.8 (90ft).
P2) The flake followed by a gritty slab with a rusty button-head and hanger and a just out of reach chickenhead to challenge you. Gear belay under roof in horizontal crack (finger-sized cams) 5.10 (75ft) 1983!
P3) You've got to get down and while the Ruckman guide seems to suggest traversing straight right along unprotectable slab, try following the horizontal under the roof, stepping across a small gully with the assistance of a chickenhead, and aiming for a rappel station that now sports a cordelette and 'biner. Protect the second and don't pull out on the rappel "pillar"! 5.8 (60ft)
The route has a topo in the Ruckman guide and is found in the Green A gully just above This is Almost the Place. I happened to have the benefit of double ropes (70m) to get down in one rap, and didn't take the time to adequately scope the availability of a second station. However, I think it would present itself in the form of a tree(s), though I would still recommend a 70m here.
Pro from small nuts to 5+ inches, trad/long draws, one button-head and a slung chockstone on P2.
Jul 31, 2008
excellent description, however, its a rusty button head - not a piton
From: West Jordan, UT
Aug 1, 2008
You're absolutely right. I edited the description and I appreciate the feedback. And while I'd love to be the subject of an Andrew Burr photograph, I'm remembering the mantra of my first cantankerous mentor, "No pictures on top-rope!".
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 21, 2008
not that clean as of 9-20-08. the lie back around the first part of the flake was quite hard due to grit/dirt and shitty feet. First time whipping on a #5! then, you are hardly out of the woods as the next part of the flake you have to squeeze through is quite difficult as well, and topping out on top of that flake is terrifying!
but all in all, a stout 5.10 that throws a lot of different powerful (and fun) climbing at you. you should be able to follow the blood smears all the way up it, if you go soon enough!
Oct 5, 2008
what a terrific route; a great description, too, texaswall!