Creep Show 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | P. Jarrard, J. Moll, C. Snyder, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Nov 22, 2006 |
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Enjoying the stellar Creep Show.
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Description A pumpy 10d next to a technical 11b. I've heard it several times that climbers believed that the grades on these two routes were reversed!
Get on to the left of the two sport routes and head up and left on it into an awkward and pumpy left-leaning flake. Balance and grip your way to the anchors on this climb, then compare to the route to the right...
Location Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature. Just left of there, around the arete, are two sport routes. The nearer, to the right is "Count Floyd Show" (11b) and the further, to the left, is "Creep Show" (10d).
Protection A set of draws. The high flake on this route once sported an old fixed nut for a point of protection under the flake, but it was decaying and unsightly (epoxied in) and has since been replaced.
Not the best photo but this was the best sport cli...
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Eric on Creep Show
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Jugalicious!
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pulling the last moves on creep show
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climber clipping the chains on creep show and show...
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creep show
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domonique
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Creep Show
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Creep Show, April 2013
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 22, 2009
| this is one of the best 10.d's ive climbed and ive done a bunch.. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 23, 2009
| sharp edges on plate jugs.
if you're not solid at the grade, stick clip the first bolt. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| Really nice route, I was stoked to see my partner get the onsight on a very tough and sustained lead. I had trouble following between the first and second bolts, but got the sequence after a hang and finished it. The no-hands ledge toward the top is a welcome place to shake out the pump. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| The original first bolt on this route is missing- I would consider a stick clip nearly mandatory on this route, the current first bolt is probably 25' off the ground guarded by some 5.10d climbing.
That said, a phenomenal route that stays with you the entire length of the climb- no free rides on this one- a must do! |
By Mike Reardon
Apr 1, 2013
| One of those perfect combinations of geology and creative humans!
The only down side is the bolts are non stainless and need replacing as of 3/13. The anchors have been updated though. |
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