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Creek Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100 Proof S 
Are There Bolts Up There? T 
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 
Brennivin T,S 
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
Crackside T 
Crackside Direct (var.) T 
Creekafixion S 
Fish and Chips S 
Fool's Gold S 
Golden Hammer, The S 
Guppy S 
Little Sister S 
Macho Borracho S 
Playin' Hooky S 
Psychotic Love T 
Rhett Wench S 
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 
Shenanigans S 
Solid Gold T,S 
Spun Gold S 
Unknown S 
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 
Winterfest S 

Creek Side 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.74, -105.4103 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 142,388
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 29, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Shenanigans to get over to Brennivin... (borrowed ...
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 feet and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 feet above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and sees virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the '60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 foot mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the '70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60 feet to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002, a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East-facing, open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.


Getting There 

Park as for the Catslab/Dog Wall just West of tunnel five. Hop over the guardrail as though heading for the Dog Wall but follow the creek West for 250 yards. This will access the East side of the crag only.

To access the west side, you climb a tree with a rope hanging down. You can clip into loops to sort of back you up. 25 feet up, you cross a tyrolean to the Guppy pod.

Note, if you wade the river, you must lead up to the belay pod to start. Plus, there isn't really a great place to switch shoes below the Guppy pod.


L->R: 

Binge-Side is the far left side containing:

A. Are There Bolts Up There?, 10- R, 3p, 400', gear.
B. Winterfest, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
C. Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush, 10+, 1p, 55', bolts.
D. 100 Proof, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.
above C. Macho Borracho, 12, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Breninivin, 12+, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
...E1. Variation a, P1, 10, bolts.
...E2. Variation b, P1, 9+/10- bolts.

Creek-Side which is accessed by the high tyrol contains:

F. Shenanigans, 6-7, 1p, 95', bolts.
G. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p, gear & bolts.
H. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p, 115', bolts.
I. Guppy, 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
J. Clown Loach (temporary name)?, 8 or 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
KI. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
L. Crackside, 9+, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.

Bro-Side is the intimidating middle section containing:

M. Fool's Gold, 12+, 5p, bolts.
N. Psychotic Love, 10 R, 3p, 450', gear.
O. Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route), 11, 5p, 420', bolts & gear.
P. Unknown Big Black Flake, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
Q. Little Sister, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.

Gold-Side is the area containing:

R. Unknown, 7, ?p, bolts & gear?
S. Roof, 9, 1p, 100', TR.
T1. Solid Gold, 11+, 5p, 450', bolts & gear.
T2. First Spun Gold, 12-, 2p var, 450', bolts.
T3. The Golden Hammer, 12-, 4p, 450', bolts.
T4. Creekafixion, 11 PG-13, 2p, 135', bolts.
T5. 1972 Kor/Bracksieck Crack to Dihedral, 8, 4p, 400', gear.
T6. Playin' Hooky, 8-, 4p, 400', bolts.
U. Slab, 10-, 1p, 100', TR.


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',3],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Creek Side:
Unknown   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Guppy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Playin' Hooky   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fish and Chips   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Crackside   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Crackside Direct (var.)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 6 pitches, 450'   
Creekafixion   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   
Rhett Wench   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches   
The Golden Hammer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 450'   
Solid Gold   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 450'   
100 Proof   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Spun Gold   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 5 pitches, 450'   
Macho Borracho   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Brennivin   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Creek Side

Featured Route For Creek Side
Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.

Guppy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Golden : ... : Creek Side
Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description). Chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make i...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Creek Side
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News
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts 0
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4

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Photos of Creek Side Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on the high tyrol.
Climbers on the high tyrol.
Creekside, featuring BingeSide, Brennivin, Fish'n'Chips, etc. 12/23/09.
BETA PHOTO: Creekside, featuring BingeSide, Brennivin, Fish'n'...
Binge Side routes at Creekside, including Brennivin roof routes (scale: 125' from roof lip to ground).
BETA PHOTO: Binge Side routes at Creekside, including Brennivi...
Little sis heading back towards the tree.
Little sis heading back towards the tree.
Jenna finishing the tyrol with Clear Creek ripping underneath
Jenna finishing the tyrol with Clear Creek ripping...
Jenna, Nick, and I inside the pod.
Jenna, Nick, and I inside the pod.
Dayna getting ready on the Tyrolean.
Dayna getting ready on the Tyrolean.
Kevin Fox way above Clear Creek.
Kevin Fox way above Clear Creek.
Rafters below climbers on the Guppy belay pod.
BETA PHOTO: Rafters below climbers on the Guppy belay pod.
John Morgan working his way across the "Creek Side" Wall's left side.  This is the traverse from the pod over to the anchors that set you up for a lower off to the ground which then gets you to with in walking distance to routes like "100 Proof" etc....  Good fun, man. <br /> <br />Photo: Luke Childers
John Morgan working his way across the "Creek Side...
Creekside on Clear Creek. Photo: Bob Horan.
Creekside on Clear Creek. Photo: Bob Horan.
South Creek Side Wall: <br /> <br />F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.  <br />G. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p.  <br />H. Guppy, 8+, 1p.  <br />IG. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p.  <br />J. Crackside, 9+, 1p.
BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall:

F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.
...
John Morgan working his way across the "Creek Side" Wall's left side.  This is the traverse from the pod over to the anchors that set you up for a lower off to the ground which then gets you to with in walking distance to routes like "100 Proof" etc....  Good fun, man. <br /> <br />Photo: Luke Childers
John Morgan working his way across the "Creek Side...
25 feet up in the tree, getting prepared for the tyrol
25 feet up in the tree, getting prepared for the t...
Gold Side <br /> <br />Red: Solid Gold, 11+/12-. <br />Blue: Spun Gold, 12-. <br />Green: Creekafixion, 11. <br />Gold: Playin' Hooky, 8.
Gold Side

Red: Solid Gold, 11+/12-.
Blue: Spun Go...
Comments on Creek Side Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2002

We did the 5 pitch route described here on July 28 but dogged the last two pitches. What's the story?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2005
Gear Alert

NEW ROUTES!

Four or five new routes at the lower Creekside wall right off of the water East (climbers right) of the Brennivin Roof.

Routes (starting from right to left):

  • Crackside* -- 5.9+ (one move wonder), mixed gear/3 bolts, SR to #3Camalot, 85', original route traverses right (crux) after arching crack ends, to pick up another hand crack, ends on ledge with two bolt rap anchor.

  • Crackside Direct (var.)* -- 10a mixed/4 bolts, SR to #1Camalot, 115', climb above where crack ends, and beeline to the finger crack above and traversing bolts to shared rappel anchors of Guppy.

  • Guppy* -- 5.8, 13 bolts, 115'.

  • Fish and Chips* -- 5.9+, 14 bolts, 115'.

  • Rhett Wench* -- P1. 5.6 5 bolts, 70' P2. 5.11c/d 12 bolts 80-90' Climbs the left black slab, grey shield capped by two massive roofs.

APPROACH Beta: Dirt pull-off before guard rail at east side of tunnel 6, CDOT doesn't like you parking on the road next to the guard rail. These routes on this section of wall is accessed only by a tyrolean traverse! Tyrol starts 25 feet up from a cottonwood (the warm up route! -- 5th class, jugs the whole way) directly to a pod belay at small pine (AKA "Booty Snatcher Belay") at start of Fish and Chips (left) and Guppy (right). Consider bringing some jumars or tiblok. Three bolt traverse (5.2) right to the belay of Crackside routes. OR Fixed (!!!) handline 15' left to the belay of Rhett Wench. All belays are bolted.

DESCENT Beta: YOU WILL NEED A 70M ROPE OR TWO ROPES to safely rap Guppy or Fish and Chips. If you are careful, when you pull the rope, it shouldn't fall into the drink. You will eventually have to end up back to the pod belay where you will be able to tyrol back.

OTHER NOTES: traffic noise!! consider radios. 70meter rope or two ropes for rappels/jumar makes life easier on the tyrol (better yet, a petzl traxion..) helmet, camera -- very cool location/perspective!

I have some hand drawn topos if you really want/need them. Give me a call and I will be happy to share them.

Let the Circus begin!

-Darren Mabe

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 9, 2007

Replaced tyrol to Creekside Buttress routes last week.
Fatty static line. Smooth ride, no pulleys or ascenders necessary.
-darren

By Buff Johnson
Aug 28, 2007

Any thought to firing lines all the way up this amazing rock face?

By Phill T
Sep 28, 2009

Love this little area, great spot for a half day of climbing. That in mind, I was wondering when the last time the tyrol was replaced? The rope looks to be in great condition, but the tree has grown around the rope in some spots, not sure what this does to the integrity of the rope, and it isn't exactly easy to check! Seemed solid when I ran across it this past weekend, but it crossed my mind on the way back. The line snapping mid traverse would be pretty devastating....

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Nov 2, 2011

It always amazes me that some climbers are so conscientious about taking care of the crags. As a climber, I know I don't do enough to help or financially support the efforts of people like Mark Tarrant, Darren Mabe and Richard Wright. I know there are others who contribute to Clear Creek, as well. I have not named everyone who deserves our support in many ways. Is it time to form a fund or committee to support Clear Creek crags and route developers?

Just a thought and maybe an idea, a few bucks each, would go a long way, we are so lucky our sport has so much free access, but we often forget about those that developed the routes.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2011

Very thoughtful, Harald, thanks, but it was more special not having financial support from other than a well-paying job at the time. I have had incredible experiences and learned a lot in that Canyon. I think it's awesome to see many others continue to contribute.

Perhaps start a local Wishlist in one of the forums. Many of the active stewards frequent this site.

I think the biggest improvement could be made in the approach trails. Especially to the lesser visited crags! But that is "officially" Jeffco and Clear Creek County realm....

By Luke Childers
Nov 19, 2011

Good words!

By TheHut
Oct 14, 2012

Hello all - within the last week a blue 60L dry bag walked away from the bowl behind (East) of the Gold Wall. I had stashed it over the week, as it contained ropes and equipment for the highlines in that area. I'm staying optimistic that this is someone's mis-applied good intentions. If you've got any info on this, please contact me at scottthehut@yahoo.com. Thank you!

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 5, 2012

There is a downed tree that bridges the creek at the west end of Creek Side...just in case you want to try to avoid the wading during low water this winter.

By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
Jul 14, 2013

There is a new route immediately to the left of where Playin' Hooky begins. 5 or 6 bolts to shiny new chains. Anyone know what it is?

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 22, 2013

There was an older, unfinished route to the left for sometime that needed a few bolts. Probably that one and probably a much quicker way up to the 12s if you want to bypass the Playin' Hooky line. When I inquired before its finish, it was supposed to clock in around 5.10.

By Mike Bannister
Jul 31, 2013

The old yellow(?) and black and white ropes on the tyrol have been there long enough the tree is starting to grow out around them. Probably time to give them the knife (or at least retension) before they hurt the tree which is so good to us.

By Chris Moore
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 13, 2013

The ropes definitely need retentioning/replacement. I'd be happy to donate a new static line if anyone wants to message me to help out with the project. It doesn't look like it will be easy to me. I love these climbs, but man is getting to them difficult. There is a LOT of sag in the current lines. I'm going to need a progress capture like a prussik or ascender to do this again, and I'm not that physically weak.