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Credibility Gap S 
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Credibility Gap 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Zeigler, John Auld, 1960s, FFA: Morgan Gadd, Skip Hamilton, 1970
Page Views: 5,392
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Climbing just above the first bolt.
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route begins behind a large boulder about 70' to the right of West Point Crack. The first piton if reached by getting between the boulder and South Gateway Rock and climbing up and left on a steep ramp. From there, follow the obvious line where the white and red sandstone meet and form a crack/edge. This leads to a face climb protected by 4 pins straight up to double anchors. Rap from the anchors or continue up the second pitch.

I have never done the second pitch, but it is rated 5.8 and climbs up and left from the anchors. My guidebook says it goes over a ramp to a wide flake. Also, there is another climb listed in my book that traverses right from the anchors and is rated 5.10d.

  • **Warning*** I have never heard of anyone climbing Credibility Gap and not breaking off a piece of rock. This is the climb that convinced one of my climbing partners to get a helmet...not for leading the route but for belaying. The belayer is forced below the climber between the boulder and South Gateway Rock right in line with anything that gets knocked off.


Protection 

A couple of fixed pitons in the crack followed by 4 drilled pins on the face climbing to double anchors.



Photos of Credibility Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a shot of Credibility Gap as seen from Montezuma Tower.
Here is a shot of Credibility Gap as seen from Mon...
Just below the crux.
Just below the crux.
On the face, at the last bolt before the anchors.
On the face, at the last bolt before the anchors.
Aaron leading. First clip is way off the deck, There is not a whole lot of room for gear but the holds are pretty good.
Aaron leading. First clip is way off the deck, The...
Moving towards the anchors.
Moving towards the anchors.
View of entire first pitch of Credibility Gap.
View of entire first pitch of Credibility Gap.
Clipping after the crux sequence on Credibility Gap.
Clipping after the crux sequence on Credibility Ga...
You have to love the big pot holes and buckets you can grab and step in.
You have to love the big pot holes and buckets you...
Bring some pothole threads, please.
Bring some pothole threads, please.
Reaching the anchors.
Reaching the anchors.
Moving through the crux bulge on twin jugs.  Photo by Shayna Breslin.
Moving through the crux bulge on twin jugs. Photo...
Drake making it for the first time!!
Drake making it for the first time!!
Just above first clip, pitch 1.
Just above first clip, pitch 1.
Looking down in triumph.
Looking down in triumph.
Credibility Gap, on anchor. Go Pro shot.
Credibility Gap, on anchor. Go Pro shot.
Comments on Credibility Gap Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 28, 2014
By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Oct 31, 2002

True about the belay stance. I saw someone fall at the 4th pin (I think) just as they were about to clip in. When she fell, her draw slammed to the ground, and I was about 300 feet away, but I heard it hit the ground. Other than that, it's a great climb. Fun. The bolts are a little old, but they are definitely solid. Another one of those routes that plays with your mind if you let it.

By Evan Pilant
Sep 27, 2003

The route has gotten a lot of traffic in the past few months and is now relatively clean. I have lead this one over 4 times now without having stuff crumble away in my hands. This route definitely messes with your mind a little. Great route! Recommend to just about anyone.

By David Conlin
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I climbed this several times during 1997-1999. Never pulled off a single piece of rock. But my friend says his partner pulled off a sizeable boulder (est. 3-400 lbs.), almost killing his sister. Watch out!

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 2, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Route seemed to be in good shape as of this weekend - 1 out of 3 holds were sandy, but nothing broke off while we were climbing it. Chalk is caked all over the handholds that everybody uses which made me think they've been solid and, hopefully, will continue to be so.

The crux for me was the bit with twin underclings that lead you over a smooth bulge to a sidepull - kind of like climbing a whale's forehead by pulling on her nostrils. And then an eyebrow, I guess. Once past this, it's your choice: left to a mantel move or straight up to sloping pockets.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 18, 2004

I found an old beat up carabiner halfway up the first pitch, and I snarfed it. Then the next day I ran into the people who left it there. They were Colorado College girls and they were babes. I was eager to give their biner back, but I didn't have it with me when I met them. So, girls until I see you again, I guess I'll just enjoy the biner.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 11, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb. Climbed Credibility Gap on June 16th, 2004. The rock was solid, and we didn't have any problems with sandy or brittle holds. The runout to the first bolt can be protected by slinging a blunt horn about 1/2 way up from the ground. Additionally, there is another pot hole between the last pin and the anchor that will provide a little security for the final moves to the anchor. The last two pins are about 18" apart, and the upper pin is a little loose. Well worth the time.

By Drizake
Oct 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I just had my first successful lead climb on credibility and it was awesome!! There were almost no loose rocks and the pitons were in good shape. A piece of advice though...ensure you have decent size biners as the eyelets at the first belay are HUGE! I spent a couple of minutes and too much energy trying to get myself clipped in. I found the crux to be at the third or fourth piton where you have twin holes. A little sketchy for my lead skills, but trusting my grip finally got me through it!! I was so psyched to finally make it to the top of Cred. without falling. Highly recommend this climb!!!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2005

One of the Garden's best. CG is a nostalgic climb for me, as it pillowed my first fall on lead.

Climb this after work for the best place in all of the Front Range to watch winter sunsets. It's just you, the Piker, and the first stars of evening.... Aye!

By Larry Shaw
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this one for the first time today. I don't know why I've waited so long to get on it but this route is one of the better ones in the [Garden]. We climbed [Crescent] .9+ the same day and this felt much easier, guess it because the feet are better on this one.

By Nathan Hoobler
Mar 4, 2007

Led this one yesterday. It sure felt like a long way to that first bolt, even though it's fairly easy climbing. Overall, great moves and great rock. It was fun to do something a bit more vertical and a little less slabby in the Garden. Terrific view of Pikes as others have mentioned.

By England
From: ?
Nov 7, 2008

The warning about the loose rock can probably be disregarded by now. All of the loose stuff seems to have be cleaned by the high volume of climbers on this route. However, it is the "Garden", always be cautious in this area.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We climbed the second pitch last week June 17, 2010. As always, the first pitch was classic, but the second was super loose. There weren't any people below, and we had to toss out a few large chunks behind the large flake that were threatening to either fall and cut the rope or naturally release and kill a belayer. It is much cleaner now but still very brittle. Prepare for the surprise balancy finish. Bring a couple of cams! From the top, you can 4th class up the south ridge to the summit and then sling the rock and rap back down. The 2 humongous eyes will get you down with 2 X 60 meters!

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I was up there on 9/17 and about 2/3 of the way up, one of the underclings that I used to like was gone. Although it was fun figuring a new way to climb, it was sad to see a big chunk gone with fresh signs of breakage. Remember to have a pretty big biner on this route to clip to the anchors for personal pro 'cause they are huge. Also, if you are toproping off of these anchors, please stop. You are cutting into them. Set your own anchors like on all other routes and the last person can double rope down, thus alleviating the friction on the pro!

Peace

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yesterday the last piton was a little wiggly in its hole. It's fine because there is one a few feet below, and it fits with the rest of the Garden pro anyhow.

I figured I would just throw this out, because that last piton is the crux, and if you are a newer 5.9+ leader, this would be the most likely piece you would fall on.

Last, be careful with the left hand hold just below that wiggly piton. It is going to break any day now. Either skip it or grab at the very lower left part of it.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 12, 2012

Que Horror!

The big flake one used to grab from underneath and then stand on to clip the anchors broke off and left a jagged chunk remaining. Chains have been added to the anchors to allow you to clip without going any higher than the wide ledge there. A key hold just below also has a hairline crack all the way through it. Yearrrgh!

This route is deteriorating pretty quickly, though I can't say I'm surprised given the quality of the soft, red sandstone on South Gateway. I think I am done climbing this one. I was so gripped I farted multiple times on lead in front of my chick friend.

By Jeff Thomas
Apr 17, 2012

While I was sitting on top of Montezuma Tower this past weekend, I heard a loud bang. I looked over and saw a large cloud of dust rising from the base of Credibility Gap. The climber was on a top rope and no one at the base was hit, but the piece pulled off must have been pretty large to make that much noise.

By Brenden Biancalana
Sep 7, 2012



That was me climbing Credibility Gap. It's true about rocks coming off, haha.

I was just starting the second pitch too. :(

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Cool video, Brenden, but (unless I'm mistaken) it appears you were actually starting a climb called Dog Day Afternoon (5.11a), which traverses right from the first anchor on Credibility Gap. The second pitch of Credibility goes up and left to the large flake/chimney/right-facing corner and then on up. Just wanted to clarify for others. Cheers!

By KrisKemp
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 25, 2012

Did not see any bolts/pitons to the left from the first belay station. Had to rap down. Very confused. Is the second pitch trad?

By Brenden Biancalana
Oct 1, 2012

Thanks for the review, Bosier. I think I will climb this route again, and check it out. 'Cept this time I will stay off the Red Rock side of the climb ;) and go left if I can.

By Kirtis
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 9, 2013

Broke off a key hold. I don't think it will make the route any harder though.

By Jeff R. Hansen
Sep 10, 2013

Such a sweet route, one of my favorites. I try to get on this every time I'm in the area. A little heady with some sweet moves up top. And who doesn't love a double knee bar!!!!!??

By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 20, 2013

This is a fantastic climb, although the long runout to the first piton always feels spooky. Does anyone have any beta on how to protect it? Or was there once another piton?

By Matthias T.
Nov 6, 2013

Really nice climb with a few loose rocks. Pulled one unintentional, but the scary thing about this climb is the last bolt. It's pretty loose, and Im not confident that it will hold if you fall off the last slopers.

@cslice: I protected it with one big nut at the big block on the ledge. Before this, there's nothing. Then one #5 cam into a pocket. If you want a simple start, I'd start a little bit to the right in the crack.

By Andrew Ishimaru
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Oh man. This was my first climb ever... I went up in running shoes and borrowed gear on top rope after lead belaying a friend (can't believe she trusted me after a five minute how-to). Kind of a sketch start, and the holds get pretty scoped out up top, but always a good climb. Would recommend.