The 1st pitch is steep and fun with ample pro, and most climbers stop there. This pitch climbs like a sport route with gear and stays dry in the rain.
P1, either start on a small slab ramp or uphill on a ledge system that leads to the flake midway up the climb. From the direct start, pull some thin moves to gain large ledge. Pull a small roof to gain the flake ramp. Follow the flake ramp to a blocky section with a bolt. Watch for loose rock here. Clip the bolt and move to the short finger crack. From the finger crack move back to the steep flake and crank to the anchor. 5.10c
P2, Climb up and left through a blank face clipping two bolts to the base of a thin seam. Follow the seam to an anchor. A3
P3, Climb up to a dirty water groove to the bolted anchor. A2+
P4, Finish by climbing straight up on Diamonds in the Muff or move left to Wranglin' Horses and Hogs.
P2-P4 descriptions from NC Selected Climbs
From where the North Face trail meets the wall, turn left and head up hill for about 20'. Look for a small slabby apron at the base. Look up for the obvious up and right leaning flake on a steep face. Rappel the route with one 60m for P1 and two ropes for all other pitches.
P1 only, TCU's to #3 Camalot, tri-cams or doubles in the mid range to sew it up. P2-4 Standard NC Aid rack. All pitches are bolted.
Rob Rives on Creatures of Waste.
From: Red River Gorge
Aug 28, 2011
Amazing route. It is hard to have more fun on granite.