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First Buttress
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Creature 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 1,581
Submitted By: ---- on Mar 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Creature could possibly be the finest route at the first buttress. It sits unassumingly around the left side of the buttress, hidden in the shadows of the more prominent routes on the front side. Its west facing orientation keeps it shady until early in the afternoon.

The main business of the route starts above a ledge 20 feet off the ground. If you are feeling bold, or just want to impress someone, climb straight up a finger crack to the ledge. Otherwise scramble up the left side of the buttress and walk across the ledge to the start of the route.

Take care executing the intro moves because a fall would probably land you on the ledge. A technical move awaits you immediately after clipping the first bolt. The next couple bolts worth of climbing is easier, and takes you to the perplexing intro moves to the crux. Do a couple insecure lie back moves and then fall right into a big block. Falling slightly backwards and slapping the big block, while in the iron cross position, is definitely one of the more memorable moves at the Gorge.

The hardest moves come right after the fourth bolt. There are two distinct options here; either dyno or use another set of holds to make a long lock off move. Fun lie backing on good holds is your reward for completing the crux.

Location 

First route around the corner from the main face of the buttress.

Protection 

6 bolts + anchor


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By ----
Mar 18, 2012

We gave this route a beta test for 5'1" woman to 6'0" man. All the moves basically went the same way, and it didn't seem like a huge disadvantage to be shorter. Non-height dependent routes are a precious commodity at the NRG.
By Dave Wachter
Apr 11, 2012

Looking at the photo sequence, I'm not sure I believe the "non-height dependent" description, unless of course the bearded person in the photo is the 5'1" woman...
By ----
Apr 11, 2012

Believe it! But yeah, you definitely wouldn't want to dyno if you were short. The alternative sequence moves right from the fourth bolt, still hard, but doable for shorter folks. This is really the only place where the beta varies depending on the height of the climber.
By Dave Wachter
Apr 12, 2012

Anyhow, it looks awesome!
By Neal Poorman
Feb 23, 2014

I'd like to note that the optional finger crack start climbs and protects well, it is the better way to start the climb in my opinion. (Bring a few finger sized cams and mid sized stoppers). I am about 5' 2" and just sent this route today. At the 4th bolt going straight up is a big dyno (possible for someone my height but huge). It is a big span but its possible to head right even with my T-rex arms. Absolutely one of the best routes i have ever done.