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Olmsted Canyon
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Creature from the Black Lagoon 
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Creature from the Black Lagoon 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Cole, Bruce Morris
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: TylerW on Feb 11, 2010
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Hillary going for the foot traverse approach on Cr...

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Description 

A novelty route mostly, traverse along a flaring crack about 4ft above the "black lagoon" for maybe 50 ft, and then head up a 40ft 5.9 hand crack. I've tried traversing with feet in the crack and doing the tipsy shuffle, or traversing with hands in the crack. It felt very different but about the same difficulty either way.

See the awesome updated (4th ed.) Reid/Falkenstein guide for more info.


Location 

The wall above the lagoon seen immediately upon entering Olmstead canyon.


Protection 

A fall at the crux will almost certainly result in falling in the lake, so I would suggest either toproping from above with a moving belay, or soloing, since the crux is only 4 ft. above the lake. A fall into the lake would be embarrassing though, and you would hit the bottom as it is less than 6ft deep.



Photos of Creature from the Black Lagoon Slideshow Add Photo
Me, almost in the lake, thankful for the toprope
Me, almost in the lake, thankful for the toprope
Scott starting the traverse
Scott starting the traverse
Me, starting the traverse
Me, starting the traverse
Scott finishing up the handcrack
Scott finishing up the handcrack
Comments on Creature from the Black Lagoon Add Comment
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By c scott
Feb 16, 2010

This climb would be a sweet solo/bouldering problem. The water is shallow, but not too shallow. Also I don't remember any mean looking rocks lurking about. I can't wait to come back on a warm day and give it another go, sans rope!

By Brian Treanor
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This "climb" is, in fact, a boulder problem. That's how it was established and how it's traditionally been climbed, unless I'm mistaken.

10c belies the touch and go nature of the traverse. I went high, with feet in the flared crack, and there are some real tenuous bits for the grade. I know of a few solid climbers who have taken the plunge...

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 10, 2013

My shoes are now dry and my chalk bag is getting there.