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Creature from the Black Lagoon 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, Janet Robinson, and John Baldwin
Page Views: 1,623
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Creature From The Black Lagoon, 5.11d.

Description 

An easy start leads to the thin and tricky undercling / lieback crux of this route at ~40 feet. The route is distinguished by an obvious black waterstreak, located on the right side of the wall.


Protection 

Fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 50m rope. 11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Creature from the Black Lagoon Slideshow Add Photo
Creature From The Black Lagoon - 5.11d.
Creature From The Black Lagoon - 5.11d.
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo: John Baldwin Collection.
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo...
Creature From The Black Lagoon, 5.11d.
Creature From The Black Lagoon, 5.11d.
Seth Finkelstein on The Creature... 5.11d
Seth Finkelstein on The Creature... 5.11d
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo: John Baldwin Collection.
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo...
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo: John Baldwin Collection.
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo...
Steve Sangdahl on the Creature.  Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Steve Sangdahl on the Creature. Photo: Bob Horan ...
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo: John Baldwin Collection.
Chip leading Creature from the Black Lagoon. Photo...
Comments on Creature from the Black Lagoon Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2001

This route is waaaay hard. I'll never admit how many attempts this one took me to get. Sargasso, Leviathon, Mud Shark (all on the same wall, and rated the same or harder, are cake in comparison). Fantastic route! Kudos to anyone who onsights this one.

By Chris Cavallaro
Sep 18, 2001

TRUE DAT AC! waaaay hard climb! but awesome climbing to be had on the crux. Rossiters's guide shows that once you reach the obvious ledge up high, traverse right and use a piton (or so one would think that is what he meant when looking at the topo) But, just take the obvious line straight past 4 or 5 more bolts to an anchor up top. Also, one might want to place a few TCUs in the bottom section to reach the first bolt- Unless you don't mind climbing 5.8 for 35 feet unroped.

By Kristo torgersen
Apr 23, 2002

Yo, I onsighted and still haven't redpointed Sargasso Sea! I thought the trick was to press hard with the feet, full on power laybacking. Any recommendations for Sargasso?

By Luke Evans
Sep 7, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

We actually saw a creature (Garter Snake) at the bottom of this climb! Watch-out because it guards the starting foothold! Crux is pretty fun, tricky-pump liebacks but I think that the route should've ended after the CRUX......just my opinion*

By Robbie the Dog
Aug 5, 2007

I thought this climb was a lot better than 2 stars, especially for the area. Had I heeded the quality rating from here, I'd likely not have tried it. Try it!

The lieback/undercling is quite fun. True, the top is relatively easy, but it's kind of pleasant stemming and stepping.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Some hateful liebacking on this mother. Aurprisingly micro-sequential also. Probably better to be one of those short, ball-of-muscle types.

By Moritz B.
Mar 16, 2014

Bring a 0.75 to protect the start. Really fun route! Itīs like the little brother of the "Arch Angel" ;-)