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Phantasia
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Creature Feature 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: K. & E Pogue, 1991. P2 added 1992 by C. Keller, S Faulkner, T. Schlachter.
Page Views: 3,970
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (163)
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Pat finishing up on "Creature Feature".

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Description 

A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds.
Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower off. Or continue on plates and edges to the top of the rock with nuts and slings for gear.


Location 

Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature.


Protection 

A handful of draws plus some slings and nuts to finish the climb if so desired. It is generally still done just to the anchors (20 meters) as a single sport pitch.



Photos of Creature Feature Slideshow Add Photo
Easy run to the anchors on Creature Feature
Easy run to the anchors on Creature Feature
Jakob pulling the roof... the last tough move on the route...
Jakob pulling the roof... the last tough move on t...
Jakob on Creature Feature... climbing the awsome jug haul finish...
Jakob on Creature Feature... climbing the awsome j...
The Start of Creature Feature
The Start of Creature Feature
5 star classic
5 star classic
Creature Feature roof
Creature Feature roof
Throwing down a heel hook on Creature Feature
Throwing down a heel hook on Creature Feature
Comments on Creature Feature Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 25, 2008

Fun climb. The crux is at the beginning on the slab. If you're going to fall it'll most likely be here. Clip under roof then reach up over lip to great juggy plates. Pop over lip then continue on juggy holds all the way to the top. This route seems to stay wet a lot so don't go if it's rained within the past few days. In colder weather, do it in the morning, as the sun will shine on it then.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Loads of fun, reminded me of High Exposure at the Gunks. Really, the hardest section of this climb is the start. The roof move is only difficult if you're short, and even then it's doable.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010

I cant wait to do this climb it looks so fun. Cant wait for another trip here in December!

By PTZ
From: Chicago/Colorado
Jan 9, 2012

Has anyone short done this. I thought it was reachy and i am 5'11".
Fun route. I swear there is dino tracks in the upper section.

By James Pence
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

I am 5'7". The roof is hard but doable. Creature Feature is my favorite climb so far but I am new to the sport. Anyone know of more good spots for a beginner in the Gorge? The very beginning was harder than getting past the roof.

By S. Neoh
Mar 4, 2012

Muir Valley has a high concentration of routes good for the aspiring leader.

By Kyle Hartung
Jul 29, 2013

I climbed this route a few days ago and noticed that one of the anchor rings (right I believe) is starting to wear through at one point, maybe 1/3 of the way and needs to be replaced. I did not have the gear to do it.