|426 page views|
I saw this route listed in the summit register of Four Flying Apaches. I'm hoping people will contribute to fill in the details here. 200 yards to the right of Four Flying Apaches.
Approach (from Four Flying Apaches):
From Sedona drive South on 179 pass Back ‘o Beyond road which is the last main intersection before the road becomes divided. Within .5 - 1 mile there is a turn off to the left (a scenic pullout) that crosses through the other highway (this is marked by road signs). This parking lot / trail head provides immediate access to Little Horse trail and Bell Rock trail. Follow the main trail East from the bathroom. At the T intersection go right (South) onto Bell Rock trail. Continue on Bell Rock Trail going pass the Little Horse trail intersection, to a large wood bridge. Continue on Bell Rock trail for 3 minutes pass the large wood bridge and you will find a stone type bridge that goes over a small wash. Take a left into this wash and follow it up towards the cliff side. The wash eventually crosses over a single track trail (aka LAMA trial). The correct wash is marked by a small cairn on the right side of the wash. If you are not in the correct wash this is a good time to find the wash. As you approach the slabs, cairns mark the easiest way to the base of Sedona Scenic Cruise. From the base of Sedona Scenic Cruise, Creationism is 200 yards to the right.
Decent (from Four Flying Apaches):
R1) Rappel from the last anchor back down to the top of the fourth pitch (85'). If you have a 60m rope, it's probably easier to leave your second rope here rather than hauling it to the top.
R2) Airy rappel (TWO ROPES!) from the long chains back down to the sloping ledge with chains noted in P3 description above. Watch the rope pull on this as the blocky ledge above tends to eat the ropes.
R3) Rappel (TWO ROPES) off the sloping ledge down to a two bolt anchor with slings and a rap ring at the top of the vertical section of the second pitch. You're headed for a bolted anchor with chains down a slot just below the buttress where the second pitch starts.
R4) Rappel (TWO ROPES) back down to the ground, just South and around the corner from the first pitch.
No fixed gear, all trad.
|By Rusty Pipe|
Feb 7, 2012
The probable first ascensionists and namers of 'Creationism' were 2 Prescott Cimbers named Kevin Eastman and Macrae(who's last name I forget). But they put it up sometime in 2008/2009 after a series of attempts. It is, as you say, to the right of 'Four Flying Apaches. I think the beginning of the route may be less than 200yds, and more like a rope-length to the right of "Apaches"...After failing to accurately choose the proper first pitch (we were definitely too far right) I think it is either through an obvious grand roof to the right of the first pitch of 'Apaches', or up some thin cracks that are just to the right of that roof on some clean-looking rock.
I just attempted the route yesterday, and was stupid and didn't call those guys for beta, just winged it on some vague memory of their story of discovering it... So we did some "Creationism" of our own, and it was scarey for about a pitch and a half until we definitely found ourselves on said route. One distinct feature of the route, on what would be either pitch two or three, is an awkward squeeze move between a roof and a diving board, into a beached whale position on the top of that diving board, above which is a wonderful 5.9 dihedral for over 100ft. That dihedral is one of the best pitches I've climbed in Sedona. There is another interesting and good pitch above that, then the final pitch of Creationism is one in the same with Four Flying Apaches. However, I'm wondering if at the top of pitch 3 (the dihedral) of Creationism, you could jog slightly right on the ledges there, into another grand dihedral that I saw, and take it to the top.
Creationism offers a less contrived route up the cliff, and to do both routes in a day would be an awesome Grade 4 outing. Be aware that because "Creationism" is new, it is still dirty and potentially dangerous, but once it gets climbed a bunch it should clean up nice. I hope someone goes out and figures out the start and posts it here. I'm pretty sure p2 is not the obvious, clean, wide open book (which I think I saw some gear stuck in), but the jangly area that is left of that book. I suppose you could go either way to get up to the diving board.