Cream is a great offwidth pitch that ranks among the Valley's most classic splitters. Imagine Chingando, but 20 degrees steeper. It's also probably among the easiest of the 5.11 wide cracks if you are looking to break into the grade.
This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitter. The crux comes at you pretty quick on a section that is gently overhanging. Higher up you will pass a small roof and the angle lessens. Conserve your gear because the climb is longer than it looks. I found the route fairly secure but burly and sustained the whole way, with almost no climbing easier than 5.9. Also consider bringing extra webbing for the anchor. The bolts are new but the webbing connecting the rap rings could use replacing. There's a chance a 70m rope might get you down, but I'm not sure.
I brought three #4 Camalots, two #5 Camalots, and two #6 Camalots and placed all of it, plus a couple hand sized pieces at the start.
From: San Jose
Aug 28, 2012
70m rope probably get you down but not to convenient ledge.
It is better to have 80m - and both leader and follower would be at comfortable stance to start.
On lead I armbared at crux with left side in. Than on TR I hand stack crux right side in- and if was way easier.
When left side in - you also can use big knobs to ease transition from 4 to 5 inches.
Used a lot of big gear on this climb 2x from #3 to #6 + 1#4 friend + single set from small tcu to #2. I even use blue alien
|By david s wilson|
Sep 30, 2013
Approach beta: park at the start ( eastern side ) of the stone wall after the tunnel and then walk back down the road easterly about 100 feet. Head down bearing slightly east of the fall line until you each a line of metal power poles. With the above description, you should be able to walk to the closest of these poles and from that pole go directly down to the cliff edge to find the passage
Rope: a 60 meter rope will barely by adding a few slings to one end, allow a TR from the upper ledge. 70 meter rope is preferred.
Gear: we had: 2-3, 2-4, 2-5, 2-6 and seemed ok
From: San Jose
4 days ago
Until memory fresh from yesterday:Left side in all the way from the crux.
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save one #5 for upper part.