Approach options. As seen from Reed's
This is a shady band of cliff below Hwy 41, between the Rostrum and the Wawona Tunnel. The climbing here is mostly difficult, but of good quality. This is a summertime spot, do not climb here in the early spring due to drip. Expect solitude!
This is the hard part! From the Valley, drive up Hwy 41 and proceed through the Wawona Tunnel. Park at the small pullout on the right side of the road just before the big developed pullout for the Rostrum.
Directly from the pullout, follow a steep drainage downhill. The drainage will quickly end, continue in the same direction through a forest until you crest a small hill with a steep section on its back side. Don't go straight over this hill, rather pass it on its left or right side. Proceed through more forest and a section of new growth until you reach east/west power lines and a dirt utility road. From here there are two options:
1) For people who have climbed here before. This way will take you to the Energy Crisis side of the cliff. Follow the power lines to the west until you come to an uphill section. Veer right into the forest and walk downhill until you come to the top of the cliff. There is usually a rap line tied off to a small tree. This line will take you to the ledge that Energy Crisis tops out on. You will need jumars if you plan on exiting this way. Also bring some pieces to protect yourself as you try to clip the chains for Energy Crisis.
2) For people who are new to the area. This will take you to the Cream side of the cliff and the belly crawl - down climb - belly crawl - traverse.(its really fun) Find a cairn along the power lines. Push back some tree branches and follow a small climbers trail down and to the RIGHT of a developing gully. Follow this trail as it winds downhill, RIGHT of a gully. The trail cuts back into the gully about half way down. Follow this gully downhill with small scrambles along the way until it exits out left in a sandy area. From here you should see the offwidth of Cream. Keep traversing left (west), passing exposed sections until the ledge widens at Jam Session. You are here! There is a really awesome ledge here and you can look across the canyon and see good views of Five and Dime. Continue around the corner for the exposed but solid belly crawl traverse to the Energy Crisis side of the cliff.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Cream 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Cream
Cream 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CA
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Cream
Cream is a great offwidth pitch that ranks among the Valley's most classic splitters. Imagine Chingando, but 20 degrees steeper. It's also probably among the easiest of the 5.11 wide cracks if you are looking to break into the grade.This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitt...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2010
The crawl is entertaining the first time, ants and all.