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The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Early Riser, The T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Hersey, Robb Cadwell
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Sep 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tom Englebach, 2007.

Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This seldom-climbed route is actually real good. Step out left from the chimney quite high on the top pitch of Blind Faith, and pass a couple angling scooped edges (Alien in flake above) to the arete. Here boldly layback to easy ground. Don't blow the layback. Up a short face above, move left, (watch for rope-drag problems) then finally mantle inelegantly onto a very exposed "diving-board" block. Technically moderate for Eldo 5.10b, but somewhat committing.


A regular Eldo rack will suffice, a few wires, and Aliens, and a handful of shoulder length slings

Photos of Cream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The spire-licous exposed throne of the Bastille, s...
BETA PHOTO: The spire-licous exposed throne of the Bastille, s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lyn following the upper part of Cream, with the Ed...
Lyn following the upper part of Cream, with the Ed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower half of route: Cream  2'x 2'x 3" scary ...
BETA PHOTO: Lower half of route: Cream 2'x 2'x 3" scary ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Englebach, 2007
Tom Englebach, 2007

Comments on Cream Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 10, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Boy, if I climbed where you did, that is ballsy use of a TCU/Alien behind a flake... looked pretty bad to me.

I placed gear in the crack in the chimney, a large bomber stopper & bomber Camalot an a long sling, and then headed left. The first stem would have been hard for a short person. Then up and left on runout terrian. I got nothing good in for quite a ways (severe fall potential) and then got several bomber pieces once near or on the pinnacle. This gear was 1 ea. red & brown tricam + a few large Camalots in the back of huecos + I threaded a few needle-eyes. Of course, they were creative placememnts, but they were good gear.

I'd only rate this pitch 1-star. It will improve with traffic.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

I stepped over onto the face at the lowest place I could. Definitely not an option for those who are altitudinally challenged.

That first, downward-facing flake flexed the full range on a BD 0.75 when I placed one behind it. Spooky. So, I took it back out and my first gear was a slung horn a bit higher. (Bad fall potential beforehand). The rest was fun and better protected. I placed a BD 0.5, a medium nut, looped a keyhole, and slung the top horn (for TR protecting my second).

Interesting moves down low, cool holds up high, great position. But overall quality is average. [IMHO that flake should be trundled]

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