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 ADVANCED
The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face [Bastille] T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 

Cream 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Hersey, Robb Cadwell
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Sep 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tom Englebach, 2007.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This seldom-climbed route is actually real good. Step out left from the chimney quite high on the top pitch of Blind Faith, and pass a couple angling scooped edges (Alien in flake above) to the arete. Here boldly layback to easy ground. Don't blow the layback. Up a short face above, move left, (watch for rope-drag problems) then finally mantle inelegantly onto a very exposed "diving-board" block. Technically moderate for Eldo 5.10b, but somewhat committing.


Protection 

A regular Eldo rack will suffice, a few wires, and Aliens, and a handful of shoulder length slings



Photos of Cream Slideshow Add Photo
The spire-licous exposed throne of the Bastille, summit of Cream
BETA PHOTO: The spire-licous exposed throne of the Bastille, s...
Lyn following the upper part of Cream, with the Edge in the background
Lyn following the upper part of Cream, with the Ed...
Lower half of route: Cream <br /> <br />2'x 2'x 3" scary flake
BETA PHOTO: Lower half of route: Cream

2'x 2'x 3" scary flake
Tom Englebach, 2007
Tom Englebach, 2007
Comments on Cream Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 10, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Boy, if I climbed where you did, that is ballsy use of a TCU/Alien behind a flake... looked pretty bad to me.

I placed gear in the crack in the chimney, a large bomber stopper & bomber Camalot an a long sling, and then headed left. The first stem would have been hard for a short person. Then up and left on runout terrian. I got nothing good in for quite a ways (severe fall potential) and then got several bomber pieces once near or on the pinnacle. This gear was 1 ea. red & brown tricam + a few large Camalots in the back of huecos + I threaded a few needle-eyes. Of course, they were creative placememnts, but they were good gear.

I'd only rate this pitch 1-star. It will improve with traffic.

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

I stepped over onto the face at the lowest place I could. Definitely not an option for those who are altitudinally challenged.

That first, downward-facing flake flexed the full range on a BD 0.75 when I placed one behind it. Spooky. So, I took it back out and my first gear was a slung horn a bit higher. (Bad fall potential beforehand). The rest was fun and better protected. I placed a BD 0.5, a medium nut, looped a keyhole, and slung the top horn (for TR protecting my second).

Interesting moves down low, cool holds up high, great position. But overall quality is average. [IMHO that flake should be trundled]