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 ADVANCED
Grouse Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anxiety Attack S 
Assault and Battery T 
Bearclaw T,TR 
Caifura S 
Cream Puff S 
Desire S 
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 
Grease TR 
Greener Pastures T 
Half Hit T 
Huffer T 
Insidious Crack T 
Jellyroll Arch T 
Light Headed T,S 
Mitigate T 
One Toke Arete S 
Pebble in the Sky T,S 
Rocco's Demise S,TR 
Short Cake T,S 
Slash, The T 
Slide, The S 
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown 5.6 T 

Cream Puff 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Hoffman - 1983
Season: Mid-Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: mattymck on Jun 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.

Location 

Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura

Protection 

Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 24, 2012

You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura.
By MAR
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;).