Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Grouse Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anxiety Attack 
Assault and Battery 
Bearclaw 
Caifura 
Cream Puff 
Desire 
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack 
Grease 
Greener Pastures 
Half Hit 
Huffer 
Insidious Crack 
Jellyroll Arch 
Light Headed 
Mitigate 
One Toke Arete 
Pebble in the Sky 
Rocco's Demise 
Short Cake 
Slash, The 
Slide, The 
Two Bashie Crack 
Unknown 
Unknown 5.6 

Cream Puff 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Hoffman - 1983
Season: Mid-Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: mattymck on Jun 15, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.


Location 

Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura


Protection 

Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.



Comments on Cream Puff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 24, 2012

You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura.

By MAR
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;).