Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.
Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura
Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Jun 24, 2012
You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura.
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;).