Cream Puff 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | John Hoffman - 1983 |
| Season: | Mid-Spring/Summer/Fall |
| Submitted By: | mattymck on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Description Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.
Location Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura
Protection Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.
By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 24, 2012
| You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura. |
By MAR
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;). |
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