Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.
The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.
The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/page_html/page176.html ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.
The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.
On Neptune's upper face, right of Rapture of the Steep. Large, obvious arch. Starts more right than you probably think.
stoppers, including brassies if you got em, doubles up to thin hands with probably be plenty
BETA PHOTO: Cream of Belay from Aegir, picture taken from Char...
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
This climb is great. Thanks to Clay for replacing the scary 1/4" buttonhead on pitch 2. I'd suggest making sure you have at least one #2 and #3 Camalot. We did not use a #4 on the wide roof crack but it may be useful.
I agree with Clay that with modern climbing gear this climb is probably not R rated, particularly by Reef standards. The second pitch is committing, though.
|By greg k|
Sep 15, 2013
although i only did the 1st pitch, i'd put it on par w/ rapture. even w/ considerable rope drag and a thought-provoking start this climb was spectacular!
|By Jake Croft|
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 8, 2014
Looks like the 2 bolt belay for the first pitch in the picture only has one of its bolts now.
Also, does anyone know anything about the sport route directly to the right of this? (not finding Guinness). Doesn't look like its on MP yet
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jun 9, 2014
It is Reef Stricken which starts left of the start of
cream. Read the description.