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Neptune
Routes Sorted
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Agent Orange (with direct start) 
Arc Of A Diver 
Clip Tide 
Cream of Belay 
Endless Edge 
Finding Guinness 
Finding Nemo 
Free Fall 
Jaws 
Jimmy Dean 
Land Shark 
Layback 'n Cruz 
Ma'adim 
Muscle Shoals 
Naranja 
Phillipino Fighting Fish 
Prime Rib of RURP 
Rapture of the Steep 
Reef Stricken 
Salty Dogs 
Scimitar 
Shanadoo 
Shanashee 
Stop Making Sense  
Swept Away 
Tide Me Over 
Unfathomable 
Visceral Pull 
Warm and Free 
Where Eaglets Dare 

Cream of Belay 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JS, RR, SB, DG, '76
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jun 8, 2013
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Clay on pitch 1

Description 

Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.

The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.

The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/page_html/page176.html ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.

The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.


Location 

On Neptune's upper face, right of Rapture of the Steep. Large, obvious arch. Starts more right than you probably think.


Protection 

stoppers, including brassies if you got em, doubles up to thin hands with probably be plenty



Photos of Cream of Belay Slideshow Add Photo
Cream of Belay from Aegir, picture taken from Charles Vernon.
BETA PHOTO: Cream of Belay from Aegir, picture taken from Char...
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

This climb is great. Thanks to Clay for replacing the scary 1/4" buttonhead on pitch 2. I'd suggest making sure you have at least one #2 and #3 Camalot. We did not use a #4 on the wide roof crack but it may be useful.

I agree with Clay that with modern climbing gear this climb is probably not R rated, particularly by Reef standards. The second pitch is committing, though.

By greg k
Sep 15, 2013

although i only did the 1st pitch, i'd put it on par w/ rapture. even w/ considerable rope drag and a thought-provoking start this climb was spectacular!