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Lost Angel
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5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
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Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
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Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Crazy Wisdom 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rossiter
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 17, 2004

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Description 

This route is located on the Zen Garden Wall of Lost Angel. Find the 2 bolt anchor at the top of the Zen Garden Wall. It is probably best to rope up the first time. Rap 100ft to the set of anchors to the left of the 2nd pitch of Strange Cargo, 5.11b.

Another great first ascent by Rossiter in this area. Angle up and right, clip two bolts as you setup for the crux roof. Funky sidepulls and good footwork will get you over the roof. Then enjoy the perfect finger and thin handcrack above. Join Be Here Now (5.8) for 3 more clips.

Protection 

5 bolts, and gear to 1 inch.


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