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Crazy Horse General Area
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Aircon Wall 
Ant Hill, The 
Anxiety State Crisis Cave 
Archway, The 
Buddha Buttress 
Crazy Horse Buttress 
Evening Terraces, The 
Furnace, The 
Gatekeeper Buttress 
Hanging Gardens, The 
Heart Wall 
Hoof, The 
Junkyard, The 
Little Monkey Cove 
Reunion Buttress 
Rooftop, The 
Tamarind Village 
Windy Cave 

Crazy Horse General Area Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 18.75, 99.23 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,170
Administrators: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 24, 2009
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Getting There 

The easiest way to get there is to come from the climbing shop in town, Chaing Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA). This is in the "quiet" SE corner of the Old City at the corner of Rajchapainai and Soy 3. Do not expect that your tuk-tuk or airport cab will know where this is. Maps are also foreign to most of them, so, like, ehhh... well, good luck.

They will, however know where the Julie Guesthouse, the T.K. Guesthouse the J.J Guesthouse or the Same Same Guesthouse. If you can make it there and walk down the street just past Pooh EcoTours, you will find the small and barely marked shop next door.

CMRCA will provide transportation for 395 baht per day; add another 75 baht if you want a hot lunch. You'll ride in a red truck taxi, which leaves town at 8:30am, and returns at 4.30pm. You will want to reserve your seat in advance. Your transportation fee also includes fresh drinking water at the crag.

You can also pick up a map and rent a scooter and drive. The directions are in the guidebook for the area.

Description 

Crazy Horse Buttress is the jewel of northern Thailand climbing. It is a very different experience than Railay: You are swapping seaside views for arid jungle. You also lose the convenience of hopping out of your bungalow and and being able to clip your first bolt five minutes later -- instead, you have a 45 minute commute from town. The upside is that the climbing here is rarely crowded, and many of the routes are less polished. Crazy Horse also offers the opportunity to climb inside some substantial caves: Morning Glory, for example, is a 5.10 about 100' feet long in the Windy Cave. The Anxiety State cave has some short and easy routes, as well as multipitch classic testpieces. Routes are generally well bolted. And, although Crazy Horse does not have the corrosion problems of Railay, the area is gradually being rebolted with titanium glue-ins. Chiang Mai is also a vibrant city, with lots of opportunities for rest day activities.

Rock Climbing Photo: The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave.  The (u...
The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave. The (upper area of) cave is a popular caving spot for the CMRCA.


There are three seasons for climbing in Chiang Mai: hot, hotter, and hot and wet. Daytime highs will often hit 100F by April (Note: temps at the crag will often be several degrees cooler than in town). Summer gets quite warm, and there is a rainy season in early fall. Overall, the rainy season for Crazy Horse is shorter than for Railay, and average humidity levels are a little lower as well. Here's a link to the Wikipedia entry for the seasonal weather norms:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_M...

It is possible to chase shade all day. Also, it can be quite cool on winter mornings, particularly if you are riding a scooter from town.

Dangers and hazards: Honey bees build large nests on the underside of roofs, and are aggressive. In contrast, wax bees have short tube-like nests, and are pretty harmless. You will find wasps on occasion as well. There are also centipedes, scorpions, and red ants which can inflict nasty bites. The dogs that live at the cliff are generally friendly, and the monkeys here are rarely seen. Some of the tamarind plants are painful to touch, ditto for nettles found along the trail.



There is often a monk living by the cave system on the right side of the Ant Hill. Please be respectful in this area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Honey bee hive
Honey bee hive


Rock Climbing Photo: wax bees
wax bees

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.3 miles from here

130 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',6],['5.9',18],['5.10',50],['5.11',38],['5.12',14],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Crazy Horse General Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Crazy Horse General Area:
Samurai   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 50'   Tamarind Village
Ding Dong   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Crazy Horse Buttress
Chimney Sweep   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Tamarind Village
Ahya!   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Crazy Horse Buttress
It's Got To Be Funky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Crazy Horse Buttress
Into the Sun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   Crazy Horse Buttress
Song Of Stone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Junkyard
Dangeours Joy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Crazy Horse Buttress
Blood, Love and Steel   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Crazy Horse Buttress
The Tree Surgeon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   The Archway
Anxiety State Crisis   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   Anxiety State Crisis Cave
The Balance of Power   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   The Furnace
Headhunters   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Crazy Horse Buttress
Intensify   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   The Ant Hill
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Crazy Horse General Area

Featured Route For Crazy Horse General Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh focused on the clip on Balance of Power

The Balance of Power 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Asia : Thailand : ... : The Furnace
One of the best climbs at the crag. Some great 5.11 climbing leads from the right tufa, across the face on a few generous pockets to a stance on the top of the the left tufa. Make the most of the rest. from the 4th bolt the difficulty increases severely, the technical crux here consists of tiny crimps which you wobble up on a prayer. But you're only halfway, a brief stint of more 5.11 climbing gets increasingly difficult as the climb steepens. One super powerful move then guards the anchor. Not ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Crazy Horse General Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Monk's cave by the Ant Hill
Monk's cave by the Ant Hill
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Crazy Horse
View of Crazy Horse
Rock Climbing Photo: Inside the Anxiety State cave.
Inside the Anxiety State cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave.  The (u...
The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave. The (u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crazy horse
Crazy horse

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