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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Crazy Fingers 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, date?
Page Views: 2,698
Submitted By: adam brink on May 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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A send of Crazy Fingers.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.


Location 

This thin crack beauty lies to the right of Parallels and Foxtrot. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, traverse left and up past the top of Foxtrot to the Parallels anchors.


Protection 

It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs.



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By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2007

Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.

There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.

This climb could benefit if it had its own fixed anchors. That way you wouldn't have to cross through the top of Fox Trot and Parallels (which can be a logistical challenge) to get the current anchors.

By Stan Lanzano
Jul 18, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

This great, but short, pitch has a lot of varied climbing and just enough gear that kept me from freaking out. Each move is super precise and technical—no fluff from the jug off the ledge to the slab. Make sure to save some strength for the run from the sloping rail to the final finger lock which covers solid 5.11 terrain with gear well below your feet. An onsight of Crazy Fingers would be very impressive!

I agree with my brother, Ted, that Crazy Fingers could definitely use its own anchors. Steve Levin, rightly, suggested that the anchor situation with Foxtrot is at least workable, but in my opinion, the traverse from Crazy Fingers to Parallels is impractical.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Nov 2, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

I agree about the lack of an anchor being really "inconvenient" on this route. After redpointing this route, I was traversing over to the Parallels anchor. I didn't think I'd need any gear for this as I have traveresed around on this slab quite a bit, however I did have a couple nuts just in case. The way I go there is one section thats not trivial, its not hard, I don't know ~5.7 at the hardest, I decided to put a nut in the slab above Foxtrot crack just in case. I was stepping through this little move a bit farther L. and my foot slipped causing me to take an awkward swinging fall and I jacked my back into the dihedral atop Foxtrot, ouch! Whatever?!, my own stupid fault, nevertheless this route is spectacular, quite technical, precise and enjoyable. Classic. I think it's the best of these three cracks. Jalepeño spicy.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Nov 9, 2009

This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors.

By Casey McTaggart
From: boulder, co
Apr 18, 2010

Walking down to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers today (4/18), we ran into a nice surprise- new anchors above Crazy Fingers. No more sharing with Parallels! Yay! Thank you, guys.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have 2 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun.