Crazy Face 5.11a
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| Type: | , 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Ken Heiser on May 26, 2004 |
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Description Begin this route 10 or 15 feet left of the the route "Motorbreath" listed on this sight, starting from a flake leaning up against the cliff. Clip the first bolt and make weird smearing and stemming moves up and out left to a minute stance and the second bolt (crux). Clip the second bolt and move up to the crack (10+). Up the leftleaning crack to the Motorbreath anchor. Continue with that route or rappel.
This short climb has really neat moves but the bolts are really old and dangerous and are in need of replacment.Have fun :-)
Protection A light rack is helpful for this climb. The pro is: first a rusty old, second a really bad old 1/4 in bolt (luckily it would be a very short fall) and then the crack.
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2004
| To correct my poor typing above; as of the time of post this route the pro constists of : A rusty old 3/8 in. bolt, a really rusty old 1/4 in. bolt and then the crack.Cheers Ken H. |
By Chad Stebbins
May 29, 2004
Gear Alert
| I replaced the two bolts on 5/28/04. Both were bad 1/4 inch button heads (one with a leeper hanger and one with a bad SMC hanger). Now they are nice 3/8 stainless with fixe hangers.
The climb is now probably 1.5 stars (with the gear update). Good climbing but not sustained once you reach the easy crack (small to medium cams), and the crack is a touch dirty. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 7, 2004
| Bill Feiges and I did the first ascent of this climb during the summer of 1977.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California |
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Oct 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a
| To be specific, I think it was June 1977 that Bill Feiges and I did the FA of this route. Remember that the first moves were crux. |
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