||Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI4+ [details]|
|FA: ||John Imbrie & Clint Cummins, December 27, 1977|
|Page Views: ||2,251|
|Submitted By: ||Luc on Feb 22, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Crazy Diamond on Sunday 16-Feb 2014
Climb the first moderate pitch (WI3) to a good stance. Attack the upper section (WI4+). The top column does not always come in. This is one of the shorter climbs at Lake Willoughby, as well as one of the more moderate.
Located right of Extensive Homology past the tree line and just left of Zephyr.
Ice screws. Rap the route. Bring gear for v-threads.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Pisgah February 16, 2014
Larry Knapp. Steeper than it looks..
By Ted Sumers
Apr 9, 2013
i think 4+ is a huge sandbag, even for willoughby! i climbed this in thin(ish) conditions; lead the first pitch (would give it wi4) and followed the second (easily wi5, maybe 5+). i'd followed glass menagerie a few days earlier and think this was substantially harder-- while glass menagerie had more sustained steep ice, it was also stemmable, whereas the crux pillar on diamond was super thin, straight vertical, and marginally protectable at best.
Jan 11, 2015
i says what ted says