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 ADVANCED
Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)
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Crack, The 
Crazy Crack 
Guillotine, The 
Kanaranzi Right 
Purgatory 
Stairway to Heaven 
Stairway To Hell 

Crazy Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 920
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006
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Crazy crack, partially shaded on a hot June day.

Description 

A fun route on either lead or top rope. Follow the crack up, traverse left at a small roof/ledge, and continue to the top. The climb tops out at a small ledge 3 feet below the true top. This is a great place to sit while you belay your second.

  • RCM&W #31, p.39.


Location 

This is the furthest left crack on this face.

Descent/TR setup: via the third class chimney on Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).


Protection 

Nuts, hexes, cams, tri-cams. I didn't use anything bigger than hand/fist sized. Standard top rope setup



Photos of Crazy Crack Slideshow Add Photo
John Peterson leading.
John Peterson leading.
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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007

Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead.

By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 23, 2011

Leading up straight over the small roof and then traversing left is a great alternate ending and is a bit harder

By Pete Hunt
Jan 6, 2012

Great lead... bring #2 and #3 Camalots if you have them. The #3's are great higher up. Those two sizes alone will protect the second half of the climb.