Crazy Alice 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Panciera, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 |
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Crazy Alice climbs the zig-zag cracks to the right...
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Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
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and Mountain Project.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.
Location Center of the main wall, the most obvious and consistent route in the narrows.
Protection Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.
Testpiece This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.
"Crazy Alice," March 2010
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Andrew on an Oklahoma classic.
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By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.8
| Totally classic, my first real trad lead. Excellent for an intro to trad climbing or on a breezy day. |
By John Calder
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 6, 2007
| Great route. Watch out for bats in the crack up high. I've almost touched em on a few jams before. |
By steven charles
Dec 19, 2008
| definitely a great climb, i'd put mr. clean on lower scott as my favorite 5.8 in the wichitas, if you visit the tas and are intersted in moderate trad, i'd say both are must do's. |
By Brent Butcher
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.8
| This crack used all my BD .75's and 1's. Bring 2 of each. |
By Leila Cranford
May 18, 2012
| Pinkpointed after Jerry M.'s lead. Definitely tested me, the 5.8 is definitely sustained and I don't really get much opportunity to climb cracks, much less 50+ feet here in NTX. Very satisfying! |
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