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Crawl Along the Watchtower
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 5
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Routes in Fairshare Tower
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Crawl Along the Watchtower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Unknown Steve Scott And Peter Lenz climbed it in June, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,263 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Show respect for the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, their property, and especially their clients.
Details
Respect the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, their clients and property. You will need a camping permit, available at Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Carry out all fecal matter. You are at the headwaters of the water supply for Garnet Canyon.
Crawl Along the Watchtower
This route traverses the ridge crest of Fairshare tower. We climbed it from South to North. The route stays either on the ridge crest itself, or just East of the ridge for most of the route. Most of the climbing is not difficult at all; and rock quality is generally good. Start at the the toe of the South Ridge. Look for a rappel anchor on the West aspect of the ridge, above a dihedral. Climb this dihedral, and belay at the anchor. Continue up several easy to moderate pitches, with difficulty 5.7 or less, with generally good protection or very easy (5.0).
You will pass a "window," looking out onto the West Face. (Gulp!) Ignore temptation to climb through this window, and ascend east of ridge crest to below the difficult looking cracks on the South face of the summit formation. Ignore temptation to ascend these cracks, (unless you are keen!) and traverse Eastward. Climb a short (20 ft?, 5.8?) finger/hand crack in a dihedral to a ledge. continue traverse Northward on ledges until you find a steep chimney/crack system. Climb this (5.8? crux) system on the East face to the summit formation. Enjoy the summit, and continue traversing the ridge Northward on excellent and easy rock. This part is really beautiful and fun! There is exposure, but the climbing is easy and lends itself to simul-climbing. Continue along the ridge crest to the North summit, and touch the top.
DESCENT: We climbed down a very ugly, loose gully/chimney on the West face, just South of the North Summit. It was a bit scary due to exposure, and loose rock, although the climbing was easy. I strongly suspect that we did not find the best descent route. Simply down climbing Northward and maybe a rappel from the North summit might be better. See what you can find. You should scope out your descent before starting the climb!
You will pass a "window," looking out onto the West Face. (Gulp!) Ignore temptation to climb through this window, and ascend east of ridge crest to below the difficult looking cracks on the South face of the summit formation. Ignore temptation to ascend these cracks, (unless you are keen!) and traverse Eastward. Climb a short (20 ft?, 5.8?) finger/hand crack in a dihedral to a ledge. continue traverse Northward on ledges until you find a steep chimney/crack system. Climb this (5.8? crux) system on the East face to the summit formation. Enjoy the summit, and continue traversing the ridge Northward on excellent and easy rock. This part is really beautiful and fun! There is exposure, but the climbing is easy and lends itself to simul-climbing. Continue along the ridge crest to the North summit, and touch the top.
DESCENT: We climbed down a very ugly, loose gully/chimney on the West face, just South of the North Summit. It was a bit scary due to exposure, and loose rock, although the climbing was easy. I strongly suspect that we did not find the best descent route. Simply down climbing Northward and maybe a rappel from the North summit might be better. See what you can find. You should scope out your descent before starting the climb!
Location
The route starts across the Teepe Glacier from the JHMG camp and hut. Look for the bolted anchor in a dihedral on the West side of the South ridge toe. See above for descent. I suspect you can do better than we did.
Protection
The only bolts are at the top of the first pitch. (We did not place these.) There was no other fixed gear. We brought a single set of nuts, and single set of cams to #3 BD. I recommend several double and/or triple length runners for reducing rope drag. We wore rock shoes on the climb. You will be walking on snow (i.e. Teepe Glacier) to and from your camp, so plan footwear with this in mind.
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