50' west of where Main Ledge turns into a class 2 area, climb a low-angle broken area to a steep wall and belay.
Wander up the wall until a gully is reached, step left and climb to a belay in a bowl.
Wander up to the Slash. Many variations lead to the top.
Pro to 3".
|By lars johnson|
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 20, 2008
I've climbed this route twice and found it hard for the grade. The start of pitch 2 is off a detached pillar with no pro for an ankle busting hands only sloping mantle. Above, a dead vertical wall leads to a sling belay off of natural pro. The mantle seemed like hard 9 or 10a. Was I off route or just out of shape?
Aug 24, 2010
I think you were off route Lars. There is nothing difficult on this route, unless some major stuff broke off since I did it.
From: Reno, NV
May 29, 2012
I agree with Lars. The moves off the broken blocks has deck potential and is not 5.7. We were able to get a small alien and a BD #0.4 in for pro to protect the first mantle. However the next mantel is powerful with no feet and a fall could result in a busted ankle. Other options exist that are easier but are less protectable. Not for someone who is at their limit on 5.7 lead.
May 12, 2013
Seemed like there was a fall and helicopter rescue on this route yesterday 5-11. I was topping out on Corrugation when saw a team of high angle rescuers and choppers. Does anyone have any details?
|By Justin Johnsen|
From: Sacramento, CA
May 13, 2013
I know the rope team that had the fall. The climber that fell suffered two fractures but is in good spirits making a good recovery at the hospital.
My information is second hand and kind of general until I speak with the climbers in person. They were climbing Craven Image; their finishing line to the top may have been Dead Tree Direct. At 12:45 pm the second pitch leader was near the end of the route and may have run it out somewhat, with a bad stopper placement as his highest piece, about twenty feet below him (around the finishing move of the climb). The belayer saw the bad piece pop out and tried to communicate that to the leader, but the leader fell shortly after. His next piece caught and held his fall, but it was a whipper of between sixty and eighty feet.
The belayer kept his cool and was able to lower the leader from the piece that caught his fall. On the belay ledge, he stabilized the leader by stopping the bleeding from his fractured elbow. I haven't heard the full story so I'm not sure how the belayer communicated for outside rescue. A search and rescue crew staged in the meadow by Strawberry Lodge and bandaged the climber's injuries, but the only available helicopter couldn't hoist him injured climber from the ledge. The rope team ended up spending about six hours there before a new helicopter was available to lift the injured off.
May 17, 2013
That's some of the most accurate stuff about the accident that I have heard online. I can add that the belayer called 911 on his cell phone and that they were hoisted to the top by a team where the injured was then flown down by helicopter. Belayer walked off via the regular decent trail. Both where very lucky, considering.
|By Justin Johnsen|
From: Sacramento, CA
May 21, 2013
Just trying to hold the rumors at bay, Andrew! Lucky is exactly what they were, very glad nothing worse came of it.
Jul 3, 2014
Climbed this today and it has the feel of a more remote alpine climb - adventurous route, loose rock, tricky route-finding and rather mungy (had to clean out cracks a few times to place gear and lichen flaked off in many sections as we climbed). Unlike the East Wall, this area clearly doesn't see a lot of traffic. But it was a lot of fun, nonetheless.
The previously-mentioned mantle move at the start of P2, which I agree is much harder than 5.7 and has serious ankle-busting potential, can be bypassed to the right via crack and face climbing that takes decent gear.
I think we were mostly on-route, but we never saw any of the bolted anchors indicated in the Falcon guide, so maybe not. Anyway, here's my summary of the route.
P1: climb toe of buttress to top of detached pillar with broken blocks
P2: go right off the belay (to avoid mantles) then angle back left and follow large flake, belay on pillar/small platform in chimney behind flake
P3: exit chimney and transition to steep, exposed face on right, climb through dikes and thin flakes to large bowl and belay on right side
P4: follow ramp on far (left) side of bowl, angling up and left, belay on large ledge with broken blocks
P5: go straight up and angle slightly right, awesome exposed finishing moves through fist/off-hands crack, belay on bench
Scramble to the top
| || Start of Craven Image |