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Routes in West Wall
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Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stone From The Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, 1969. |
| Page Views: | 8,408 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Craven Image is one of the best kept secrets at the leap. Though not as striking and obvious from the ground like many other Leap classics. This one has all the staples of why the Leap is so famous. Not a typical “obvious” line. Some route finding skills are required. A great adventure for a proficient 5.7 leader.
P1 (120 ft): climb a 4th class ramp to the top of a pillar, or traverse in from the Right along the ledge past Vanishing Point for the easy start.
P2: (100ft) mantle over a black knob and onto a series of dikes. Traverse up and left to a low angle ramp in a wide chimney. Scramble up the chimney (Lady Bug 5.6) to a gear belay and a couple pitons.
P3: (130ft) Exit chimney to the right and transition to steep, exposed face, climbing through dikes and thin flakes to large white bowl. The rock in this bowl is different and looks like a white flaky quartzite. Belay on right side of the bowl in a good crack on a sloping ledge.
P4: (180ft) Follow ramp on far (left) side of bowl, angling up and left. After exiting the bowl, trend up and right to a series of huge blocks and ledges. Belay somewhere in there. Many options.
P5: (180ft) Go straight up where you’ll find a large dirty left facing chimney above. Climb up and way Left following wide flakes and dikes up the “Dead Tree Direct (5.6)” finish. Or climb around the exposed corner just to your Right and climb the wild and airy “Easier Than It Looks (5.8)” fist crack for a climactic finish.
Scramble to the top.
Photos
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