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Crash Test Blondes 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 1994
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 30, 2001

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  • Description 

    Crash Test Blondes is on the furthest North end of the crag proper and is the first route to the right of the 5.9 warm up, "Pup". The rock itself is rather blonde, but I would not want to crash test it or the landing. The line fires up to a small overhang by climbing on very slabby rock, that is not a slab. The nearly continuous friction climbing makes the start feel like a slab. Turn a corner and head up sparsely protected to the overlap. Big jugs, and the crux move just preceed the anchor. I found both roof bolts to be easy to clip, but felt that the last bolt was too far right to protect the move to the anchor very well. Other than that, this is a fun route, but feels very committing.

    Protection 

    QD only. Bring 8-9 draws for the route and a couple of clips for the double bolt anchor at the top of this 70-75 foot route.


    Photos of Crash Test Blondes Slideshow Add Photo
    After turning the roof.
    After turning the roof.
    Crash Test Blondes.
    Crash Test Blondes.

    Comments on Crash Test Blondes Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    Did anyone fix these anchor bolts? They were sticking way out with a bunch of washers for some unclear reason.
    By Elijah Flenner
    Sep 30, 2002

    I did this route on 9/29/02, and the large sidepull between the first and second bolt is loose. It does not feel loose when I was yarding on it, but when I let go I heard a sound that sounded like rock against rock. I then tried to move the hold and found that I could.
    By Chris Lee
    Nov 20, 2002

    Great route! The first one we did up there...a good sign of things to come.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 22, 2002

    As of October, both bolt anchors still have at least an inch worth of washers; this seriously compromises the strength with the bolts sticking out this far.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Jun 16, 2005
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This is a wonderful route. The only problem it has is one of consistency--most of the route, save the roof at the very end, is good 5.10, and the roof itself is 5.11. There is one confusing point about halfway up below a small roof. There appears to be a blank face leading to a small roof with no holds and a huge runout to the next bolt. There is actually a bolt obscured by the small roof.Get your feet high, stand up with the aid of a small 2-finger sidepull used for balance, and then reach for the big hidden crack underneath the small roof and make the clip. The roof at the top is the star of the route. When approaching the roof, you have to go left, clip the bolt in the middle of the roof, and then work your way right and undercling the huge flake. Then you can clip the bolt at the edge of the roof. The next moves are super-burly.You have to get your feet really high and you are really exposed (although there is no dangerous fall potential). Work your hands up and move to the right to get a big hueco and another big hold over the roof. Then, with the left foot really high, haul your way over the top. Stellar.
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