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Once you reach the the base of the rock head right. The route is located between Roundabout and Magic Landing. The first bolt is 10'-15' up.
The first pitch climbs past a series of bolts to a shallow corner system. Take small gear for the upper portion (blue Metolius) and end at a two bolt belay. The guidebook says the pillar is loose and the belay should be moved, it is a little hollow but did not seem too bad. 5.8
Second Pitch: Head left off the belay up a series of chimneys. Make sure to bring some long runners and some big gear for this pitch. 5.7
I have only descended the class 4 route on the NW side. You can rap the route down to your packs (double ropes?). Consult the Southern Oregon guide for more info.
Quickdraws, a handfull of runners and camming devices doubles on the finger sizes, singles on the bigger stuff to a number three. Make sure to check out the views of Shasta to the south.
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