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Transitioning from the overhang into the vertical.
Out of place at the Druid, Crap Weasel would be more at home at The Steep. An overhung, broken crack leads to vertical stemming. Rest on a massive ledge before completing a two bolt boulder problem finish.
Crap Weasel suffers from a few faults: the massive ledge that interrupts the flow and lichen. That said the movement is pretty spectacular and unique.
The indirect, easier start to this climb exploded and is no more. It was either off-route or genius route finding depending on your point-of-view. Either way it is nothing more than gravel now. Without this cheater start the route is an epic sandbag at 5.11.
Crap Weasel is the right of two bolted lines in a little alcove. The left route is Thingfish. Roman Opposition was never bolted; it is a top rope. These routes are on the northeast face, away from the main wall.
7 bolts to chains.
Dave Hein demonstrating the proper, brutal start.
Clifford Rylands demonstrating redpoint tactics.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This route is probably easier than I rated it if you are 6ft. plus. The start I used was probably 12- alone. The climbing was fun after that and the finish worth doing. Attentive belaying at the start and the finish is critical to the leaders safety as there are hard moves close to the ground.
BETA for short folks. Layback the left side of the dihedral at the start.
I suggest you rap this route as we destroyed a rope lowering off this.