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The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beds are Burning S 
Crank Whore S 
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 
Fashion Victim S 
Genesis S,TR 
Love Muffin S 
No Quarter S,TR 
Pancake Day S 
PMS S,TR 
Quarter Ounce S 
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 
Space Sluts S 
Spread Eagle S 
Squeeze (closed project) S 
Tiger's Reach S 

Crank Whore 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Sep 28, 2011  with updates from Steve Weyand and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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About to work the crux moves.

Description 

The most popular route on the Main Wall. Follow the line of XL jugs up until the bolt line splits, follow the jugs to the right. The crux can be pulled multiple ways but involves the right hand undercling, high feet, and a toss, the true crux is just being fresh for the crux, as the move is probably only v0+.

Location 

This route is located about dead center of the main wall, directly left of the large dead stump. The anchor can be easily recognized by the hideously massive biner stealing chain wrapped around the large pine tree.

Protection 

8 bolts or so?


Photos of Crank Whore Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: about to reach the giant rest
about to reach the giant rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Crankin on Crank Whore
Crankin on Crank Whore

Comments on Crank Whore Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris G.
From: Lakewood
Jun 18, 2013

Very good route! All the moves are pretty big but the holds are huge. Hardest thing about this route is fighting the pump
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Nov 2, 2014

French 6c+, reachy.
For an easier version, start up this and finish up fashion victim, voila! missing out both cruxs and no reachy moves, but still getting pumped at F6c ish.

(Fashion to Crank is fun too)
By Muscrat
Administrator
Feb 17, 2015

The name says it all, pump fest. Watch out for the poison oak, it abounds!
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 20, 2015

Great route! Definitely worth a lap if you're in the area.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Sep 28, 2015

There are now new anchors and bolts, hopefully this improves the flow of the best line at the shredding!

Hope you enjoy clipping the new DRACOs, they are sooo lush!!

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