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> Varnished Wall
Crank Queenie
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.9 from 49 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Scott Stuemke & Dick Armstrong, 1977 |
Page Views: | 2,246 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Mike Morley on Oct 20, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures
Details
NOTICE OF PUBLIC CLOSURE:
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.
Anchor: slung horn(s).
Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.
Anchor: slung horn(s).
Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.
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