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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Crank It (aka Slabio) 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 2,415
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Crank It.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I have not climbed this route. I have tried to climb this route. Dave Graham has flashed this route, according to 8a.nu. Climb the thin smooth corner left of Jackson's Wall, right of the Aid Roof. Do a hard boulder problem and then layback up the slickest dihedral at Castle to a no-holds stance below the anchor. Let go with a hand and clip it. Good Luck.

Protection 

3 bolts/anchor.


Photos of Crank It (aka Slabio) Slideshow Add Photo
Working on cranking it. Something I usually don't do in front of people.
Working on cranking it. Something I usually don't ...
The anchors seem so close and yet so far....
The anchors seem so close and yet so far....

Comments on Crank It (aka Slabio) Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve dieckhoff
Aug 28, 2002

It was my understanding that Pat Adams bolted this but considered it an open project and Jerry did it when he was here to climb Just Do it. Pat's generosity is commendable. I think Peter's honesty is also commendable.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2002

Slabio is arguable one of the best pitches in the country if not the world! Three stars for good position. Moffat rated it 14a. Tommy C. down rated it to 13c. The crux is probably six inches long. The crack leading up to the anchors is 12c/d.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 9, 2005

A couple months ago I watched Taylor Roy lead this route while placing gear. It was impressive. (I think he had previously red-pointed the route using the bolts). - Chad
By Luke Childers
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

I have tried this line and could do it with one hang, but I never went back to link it up. A fun line that I felt was 13c for sure.