Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Hangdog Cafe
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Monkey S 
Crank Du Jour S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dyne and Dash S 
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 
Wobbler Pudding S 

Crank Du Jour 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Reduced Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Hangdog Cafe really splits into three main features as you look at it. There is a massive roof in the middle, with mostly vertical walls on either side. Crank Du Jour is on the right side of the vertical wall to the left of the massive roof. From left to right, it is the second route on the crag.

This route is really all about a burly boulder problem between the first and second bolts. Puzzle it out and the route is yours - after the steep crux, the route turns to pleasant 5.11 vertical climbing.


7 bolts -bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

Comments on Crank Du Jour Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.
By slim
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

My initial impression of this route is pretty similar to Jack Sparrow's. The crux isn't very fun. Way scrunchy, way awkward, and fairly painful. The block under the anchor is pretty scary. It would probably kill you and your belayer if it came off. Climb to the left of it, and don't use it for your hands (which would be hard to do without pulling out on it). From below, you can't see the left line of holds very well, and it is tempting to get in the wrong position for the block. crux will be way easier if you are short.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!