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The Hangdog Cafe
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Blood Monkey 
Crank Du Jour 
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Oldtimey Eleven, The 
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Crank Du Jour 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 6, 2001
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Description 

Hangdog Cafe really splits into three main features as you look at it. There is a massive roof in the middle, with mostly vertical walls on either side. Crank Du Jour is on the right side of the vertical wall to the left of the massive roof. From left to right, it is the second route on the crag.

This route is really all about a burly boulder problem between the first and second bolts. Puzzle it out and the route is yours - after the steep crux, the route turns to pleasant 5.11 vertical climbing.


Protection 

7 bolts -bring a stick clip for the first bolt.



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By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.