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 ADVANCED
Kermits Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T,TR 
Cranial Prophylactic T 
Kermit's Direct Finish T 
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 
Kermit's Wad S,TR 
Lend Me a Dime S 
Lime Line Variation T 
Paranoia Streak T 
Punany S 
Revenge of the Nerds S 
Smitty's Wet Dream T 

Cranial Prophylactic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Miller and Smith '76
Page Views: 3,694
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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BETA PHOTO: Sweet, albeit short, route.

Description 

Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.

Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.

If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.

Protection 

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch.


Photos of Cranial Prophylactic Slideshow Add Photo
cold...and it looks better then it is, but...it's still worth doing over and over <br />
cold...and it looks better then it is, but...it's ...
Cranial
Cranial
The obligatory layback shot.
The obligatory layback shot.
The fun move (It helps to be 7 foot tal like Lee).
The fun move (It helps to be 7 foot tal like Lee).
I swore I wasn't going to clip that bolt.  Oops.
I swore I wasn't going to clip that bolt. Oops.
Bolt
Bolt
At the crux.
At the crux.
Tim makes good use of the crack as he pulls the crux. No prophylactics required.
Tim makes good use of the crack as he pulls the cr...
Cranial Prophylactic
BETA PHOTO: Cranial Prophylactic
Peter leading P1 of Cranial Prophylactic
Peter leading P1 of Cranial Prophylactic

Comments on Cranial Prophylactic Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 26, 2004

This is an okay route, kind of spicy in a couple of spots, definitely worth doing if you are up in the area.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A couple of noteworthy moves. Nice finger locks.
By Lee Jensen
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bottom crack is really fun. About 20 feet. Nice 5.8 moves. After that it is a 5.5-6 swing to the anchors that goes up another 40 feet. But still fun and worth doing. Good lead to set up a top rope for the friction routes to the west.
By tenesmus
Jul 16, 2006

There is a second pitch also rated 5.8 but with lesser quality rock, fun exposure and funky moves. The belay at the top is there but thin so be sure you equalize well. Not the standard 5.8 lead but worth doing once if you've done lots of laps on the lower pitch because it gets you more acquainted with the wall in general. Then you can walk around to the anchors of Paranoia Streak for the rappell. You can definitely reach the ground with a 70m rope.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 3, 2007

The start is sporty and the crack can disappoint but I did enjoy the neat little step around move at 2/3 height. You know you are solid on trad if you can crank the start w/o the bolt!
By Michael Buchanan
Oct 21, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Dave Smith climbed this in the 70's w/o the bolt. I asked him if he cared that the bolt was there, he seemed indifferent....
By Bad Sock Puppet
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I give it a 5.7 just because I thought it was a little soft compared to other 5.8's i've done in the canyon. Still it's a clean short route. Finger size gear.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2011

Climbed the second pitch today, and would recommend it. It had some fun moves, and good albeit spaced out gear. Walk all the way back to the gulley 80ft beyond the cliff edge then down to Paranoia Streak's anchors.
By Alec
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bolt could go. It's right next to bomber gear
By Brian in SLC
Nov 30, 2011

You might search on this site as that bolt has been debated a fair bit. Bomber gear, but, difficult stance.

Bolt has been there longer than you've been alive...

Kim doesn't care. If you don't like it, don't clip it.