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This and That Cliff
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Cramming T 
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Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

Cramming 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch, Matt Donahoe, George Meyers, Jim Donini & Rab Carrington 1972
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,706
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Getting started on Cramming

Description 

If the angle was any wider, this would be a corner with thin hand crack; if it was any more acute, it would be a flaring chimney with thin hands in the back. As it is, it just hard to classify. The crux is right off the ground, awkward 1 1/4 inch jams. It eases off after 25 feet.

Location 

The far right side of This and That Cliff. The climb start from a flat wide ledge some 20'' off the ground.

Protection 

Cams up to 2. Doubles .5 and .75.


Photos of Cramming Slideshow Add Photo
cramming
cramming
Like a chimney
BETA PHOTO: Like a chimney

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 17, 2007

Gear recomendation: Red alien, 1.25 friend, 2#.75 cam 2-3#1cam 2#2Cam
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Feb 1, 2011

The first few feet seemed impossible, even after I aided through it and set up a TR. I'd rank this among the hardest 5.10's I've encountered in the Valley.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definately a stout valley testpiece. Some tubing technique is necessary to keep this thing in the sub .11 category. Impeccible rock, great protection, and interesting moves make this a classic.
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Dec 4, 2012

Experiment with which side is "in". I found one side "in" easier than the other way for most of the climb - almost a no hands rest in places. May not want same side "in" the whole climb.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 27, 2013

Yowee! Super stout and fun.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 29, 2014

We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific "in" beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me, but didn't really seem too perplexing anyway. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable
By david s wilson
Apr 13, 2014

This stout route could easily have an 11b rating, but is an excellent sandbag at 10d
By Vlad S
Nov 17, 2014

I jammed it more or less straight in except for the first few feet and definitely thought that the name of the climb is very fitting. Surprisingly not awkward at all. It only briefly opens up to a tight #2 camalot size, but about half of the pitch is #1 camalot size and the bottom is even thinner. Definitely tough for the grade, but hard to justify an upgrade since there are lots of other 10d cracks in the valley that feel like 5.11 as well. The approach SUCKS.