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Craig's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 4,678
Submitted By: mschlocker on Dec 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Me on Craig's Crack.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Probably the most jammable crack at The Gorge. Great hand jams on sticky rock all the way up. The top gets a little wide, but not too bad. I would liken it to an easier version of The Robbins Crack. It is slightly longer than Robbins too! Would be an area gang-roped classic if its location were more obvious.

There are at least two other climbs on the same rope for a TR. Make sure your rope does not get pinched in the top of the crack like another's has. There was a bee hive near here not long ago, watch out for them.


At the top of the hill. Really it's own area. Head uphill past Monkey Dance and Standard Deviation. This is just right of Turkey Chute and you will end up passing the top of this climb. Head to the top of the hill to a pinnacle with an obvious hand crack. You can see this pinnacle on the skyline from the road.


~Medium cams

Gear anchor, walk off back.

Photos of Craig's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: high balling/soloing?  photo @cameronsmith
high balling/soloing? photo @cameronsmith
Rock Climbing Photo: best rock in the gourge
best rock in the gourge
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig's Crack - Mission Gorge
Craig's Crack - Mission Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: sinker jams
sinker jams

Comments on Craig's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Feb 12, 2010

Can't believe this doesnt even see enough traffic to warrant a photo, definitely snapped one just for the page. Great climb, the business is pretty much off the deck and stays fun throughout.
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To be fair, this crack is somewhere in the 25 to 30 foot range. Good jams.

In retrospect, you may want to consider that the large chunk of rock that separates the two cracks at the top from each other may be less secure than it looks from the bottom. Consider setting anchor slightly farther back in the right hand crack.
By yosenhuttle
Mar 19, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree with Jonathan, avoid using the block at the top, it moves and isn't sufficiently large enough for an anchor. I really wanted to like this climb and the jams are sweet, but it is pretty short... Fun handcrack nevertheless
By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

If this route was 2 to 3 times as long there would be a line to climb it. The rock is excellent and the crack is perfect hands. The anchor is a bit tricky to build but some long webbing and a few stoppers or hexes does the trick.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb! I think I will try to solo it next try. #.3-#2 BD C4's If I remember correctly... You can walk off the back but if you set up a top rope I reccomend bringing a med sized hex to slot through the boulders in the back, run a sling or two to the position you want. Worked perfect for me and my partner. Really nice climbing.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the better cracks at the gorge in the beautiful orange friction rock. Maybe it would have four stars it it was twice as long.
By Andrew G
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great line, great jams. I'm not a particularly strong crack climber, but I had no problem sending Craig's Crack. Plenty of micro-ledges to the left make for good feet. Although the route is sadly short, it's worth the trek up. Amazing views for an added bonus.

A #3 C4 is nice for the top, otherwise you can sew it up nicely with 0.75-2
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent climb, a shame it's so short. Definitely worth the hike, though. Easy to protect, too.
By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2014

Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.
By wing thing
Apr 6, 2015

Adam T.
Jun 12, 2014
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.

Facial Tissue 5.10b

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