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Cragmont Park

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Gomer's Pile 
Northeast Face 
Southeast Face 

Cragmont Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.892, -122.2635 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,703
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002
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This small area is located in Berkeley a little ways from Indian Rock.

This area offers about a dozen climbs (5.6 - 5.11), primarily easier climbs that can be toproped. This would be a great place to bring beginners, as most climbs are not height dependant, and are fairly safe on toprope. The toughest route is sport, with 4 bolts. The routes are primarily shorter slab routes.

There are no access problems, and according to the signs you could actually have a barbeque here and a nice game of basketball on the court located above the climbing area in the main park.

All routes can be walked off.

Getting There 

From other places: Get off I-80 and head east from the Buchanan St / Albany exit. go 3 blocks, and take the soft right onto Marin ave. Follow the road up the hill to the traffic circle. Go around the circle and stay on Marin, which will be the fourth turn. Follow the road uphill to Regal Rd, where you should go right. follow regal a few blocks, and you'll find the park on the right side. Parking is on the street.

From the Berkeley Campus:from the north side of campus, go uphill on Euclid Ave. Go up the hill for a while, and turn right on Regal Rd. The park is one block south.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cragmont Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cragmont Park:
Cragmont Undercling   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Northeast Face
Moss Slab   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Northeast Face
Independence   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Northeast Face
Farewell to Arms   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Southeast Face
The Cave Lieback   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Southeast Face
Far East Face   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Southeast Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cragmont Park

Featured Route For Cragmont Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Take the larger crack. The smaller seam looks like...

Mont Crackula 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Northeast Face
Bit of a one move wonder with the crux coming just above a ledge at the start of the crack. scramble up the dirty 5-easy to a ledge and ride the hand-sized crack to the top. Seemed to go slightly harder than the undercling.*I could not find this climb in Bay Area Rock or anywhere on the internet, so I took the liberty of naming it. I'm sure I did not make the FA as people have been climbing at this location for 80 years. Please comment if you know the "real" name of this route....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cragmont Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pair of bolts on the Northeast face. Bolt o...
BETA PHOTO: Second pair of bolts on the Northeast face. Bolt o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cragmont Park. Over the wall, right of the court, ...
Cragmont Park. Over the wall, right of the court, ...

Comments on Cragmont Park Add Comment
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By Eamonn
Sep 7, 2004
There are four sets of TR bolt anchors. The first two sets (two bolts each, just on the face) on your left as walk along the top are for the Northeast Face. A third set (three bolts) is poorly placed just above the large tree that separates the Northeast from the other face. This set is difficult to get to safely (you can rap from the tree on top of the cliff) and the climbs for which it protects are so poor in quality it is not worth the effort.The fourth set (three bolts) is as far to the right as you can get on the cliff top and are shiny and look new. Rope drag may be a bit of problem and you should bring a couple 48" slings to accomodate this.

Also, Aron's description of the area is far superior to the Guide Book. Print it up and take it with you!
By Eamonn
Nov 22, 2004
Discovered the 5th set of bolts yesterday. From top of cliff, proceed down the slope, around the decent tree until you can see the fourth set of bolts sitting on the rock in front of you. There is a small, worn path that leads down and to the right, around another tree, and a little downscrambling leads to the fifth set of TR bolts for the .10d and the .11? These also looked in good shape.

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