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Little Scraggy Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Craggy Tur 
Into The Groove 
Ken Trout's Route 
Let Me Cry (or Unknown 5.8) 
Midlife Crisis Variation 
Miss Manners 
Past Tense 
Second Thoughts 
Shear Class 
Two Jews Blues 
Unknown 

Craggy Tur 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Tom Vanco, & Allen Jolly, ~1983
Page Views: 908
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 20, 2007
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Description 

The technical crux is the second pitch thin crack...several run out sections on the third pitch will keep you thinking.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ Climb up the crack just left of Two Jew Blues for about 35 feet to a dish and a new bolt near a old buttonhead. Clip the bolts and head up and right past two old bolts to a thin flake. Climb the flake to a 3-bolt anchor with new perlon (thanks to Jack Roberts).

Pitch 2: 5.10+ step a little right from the belay and climb into a short corner below a roof. Climb out the roof and then up the thin crack (5.10+) (RPs) to a bolt and then up a flake to a ledge...head left to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ R Follow the well-spaced bolts up the water groove to a rap anchor on the right 25 feet past the last bolt.

Rap the route in two rappel with double ropes.


Location 

The route starts just left of Two Jew Blues.


Protection 

Gear up to a two Camalot.



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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Oct 10, 2007

FIRST ASCENT: Tom Vanco and Allen Jolly helped me with this, about 1983. There were no other routes on the dome then, and we didn't name it because I was being secretive about such an easy to approach but hard to find crag. Craggy Tur was what Hubbel called it.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 23, 2012

The description of the first pitch sounds more like the first pitch to 'Let Me Cry'. I had thought that the first pitch of 'Craggy Tur' started up the right-leaning dihedral (behind the tree). This is more consistent with Hubbel's topo, but Ivan's entry for 'Miss Manners' looks like the line that I had thought was the first pitch of Craggy Tur.