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BETA PHOTO: Looking north out of the alcove.
A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.
The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.
Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.
A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!
18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Sep 8, 2008
A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!
There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.
The sheer genius of it all....