Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Crag Ranch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back at the Ranch S 
Candy Ass 
Consolation Prize S 
Crag Rancher S 
Dusty Trail S 
Fenceline S 
Granite Rodeo S 
Greenhorn S 
High Plains Poser S 
Life On The Ranch S 
Meanwhile S 
North 40 S 
Plain High Poser S 
Property Boundary S 
Quickdraw Rustler S 
Sheep Buggerer, The S 
Throwin' the Shit Fit S 

Crag Rancher 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Looking north out of the alcove.

Reduced Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.

The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.

Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.

A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!


18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.

Comments on Crag Rancher Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Sep 8, 2008

A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!

There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.

The sheer genius of it all....
By Brett S.
From: Colorado
Oct 4, 2015

The rock quality on this route is mediocre. Does not climb like a 3 star route. That said, the line this route takes and its length are pretty rad, and the moves fun. Hopefully it will clean up.

As an aside to folks up in this area, there is another bolted line just to the right of Crag Rancher that starts in a short chimney. The first pitch of this route is probably a one star .11+ that leads to a big belay ledge. The second pitch of this route climbs the right/east face of the tower that Crag Rancher climbs, this face looks very cool from below, don't be tempted! It follows crumbling edges to a giant, hollow flake that creaks and flexes when pulled. If/when this guy comes off, it could definitely be a game ender. Seriously, just about every other hold on this one is suspect. This is a crap line for the choss connoisseur only. You are warned.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!