|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick|
|Submitted By:||richard magill on Jul 1, 2001|
|Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Crag Rancher||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Cavallaro
Sep 8, 2008
A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!
There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.
The sheer genius of it all....
By Brett S.
Oct 4, 2015
The rock quality on this route is mediocre. Does not climb like a 3 star route. That said, the line this route takes and its length are pretty rad, and the moves are fun. Hopefully it will clean up.
As an aside to folks up in this area, there is another bolted line just to the right of Crag Rancher that starts in a short chimney. The first pitch of this route is probably a one star mid-5.11 that leads to a big belay ledge. The second pitch of this route climbs the right/east face of the tower that Crag Rancher climbs, this face looks very cool from below, don't be tempted! It follows crumbling edges to a giant, hollow flake that creaks and flexes when pulled. If/when this guy comes off, it could definitely be a game ender. Seriously, just about every other hold on this one is suspect. I don't mean to bad mouth someone's route, I just think that in the condition it is in, it's a little dangerous for a sport crag. If you choose to climb it, make sure no one else is belaying on the other routes nearby.