Does anyone know anything about routes in the crag above the King Soopers grocery store in Aspen Park (next to Conifer)? I have figured out access (it is not Berrian Mountain Park owned by City of Denver, despite popular misconception). I would like to bolt 2 sport routes, but not if there is a contrary established ethic here.

Before we get diverted by the trad vs sport discussion, I only climb sport. My trade with my wife is she tolerates my climbing as long as I only climb sport routes.

I always figured that was private property... Who owns it? Forest service? open space?

It's private property, owned by a non-resident attorney.

That area was climbed extensively about 40 years ago when more of it was public property. The climbing activity stopped when the property was divided and sold. Most of the original activists are no longer around and/or alive. Access has been refused and a point of contention whenever it has been asked for. Hope this helps...

Many people have climbed at Eagle Cliffs since the 60's. In fact there is even a old "how to rock climb" book from that era with pictures of dudes in knickers and huge mountaineering boots taken there. In the late seventies my friends and I climbed there often and found many a old fixed piton on the obvious lines. So yes there is a history. But that history ended sometime in the early eighties when the area was closed and the parking lot became someone's driveway.

Thanks for the information.

I've talked to several residents who have given permission for climbing on their property. So far I havent experienced animosity or issues with access or bolts. I'm still working on the tract that has the spire I'm interested in.

In light of what you have said about prior climbing and fixed pins I'll refrain from bolting anything, even though I havent seen any signs of ascent on my projects.

Very interesting, I've often gazed at those rocks passing by and thought about what a cool area it would be if it were accessible. Admittedly I've always just assumed since it was private it was a no go. Good on you for taking the initiative. I may have to go knock on some doors...

To diverge just a bit, does anyone know anything about the sport lines on S. Elk Creek Rd?

They are on very private property so to speak. The caretaker at Glen Elk knows about them and apparently has been given the go ahead to call the sheriff if he sees anyone up there.

Fair enough.

There are 7 plus or minus rock piles above Aspen Park. The upper most is in City of Denver's Berrian Mountain Park (dont ask me why Denver has a park in Jefferson County a long way from Denver), so is under Denver Parks rules. The lower 6 piles (or buttresses; maybe 3 actual freestanding spires) are on private land.

I have been up there before without permission, not knowing it was on private land and returned to a note on my car saying they would call the sheriffs next time. If they approved when you talked to them this could lead to alot of fun climbing very close to home.

Well, now see I have to wonder here. Are these land owners going to be psyched that Greg let the entire Front Range population on MP know that he got permission to climb here? I don't want to screw things up for Greg by being the 20th person to go knock on their door. What's your take Greg? Did you play the ol' neighbor card, seeing that you're from Conifer, or are they simply cool with letting folks climb on their land? And if you think that more people knocking on their doors might rub them the wrong way, can I come climb there with you sometime? :)

I know the landowners I spoke to personally, so I dont think strangers will get the same response. The landowners here, and in North Turkey Creek, all have stories of climber jerks parking cars in the way, leaving trash and being rude. The worst I heard was in North Turkey Creek, where the landowner (our neighbor) said a climber with a maroon jacked up all wheel drive Toyota pickup drove over their mailbox to park at the base of a climb, way off the road, and swore at the landowner when told to leave. My experience is that people are reasonable and respond to a nicely phrased request. I confess I didnt think of the implications of posting this thread. If anyone is going to visit the area, I would suggest parking at the grade school and walking to Berrian Mountain Park (the highest crag up the hill), since that is public land and wont get you in trouble with anyone.

For me the question is moot anyway, since the high probability of a non-sport ethic has dampened my enthusiasm for the project.

PS was that the equivalent of farting in church before leaving the building?

First of all I just want to say the Greg is one of the coolest guys I have met climbing, he has no idea who I am, just one of the many folks he has given a bouldering and geology tour to in Morrison. He is also one bad ass climber. He can down climb a V7 like he's walking the sidewalk.

Greg, I wish you could climb those areas trad style, I have to assume your wife knows about climbing, trad protection can be just as safe or safer than sport depending on the circumstances. With your passion for climbing makes this is a real heartbreaking story. I hope you can work something out with all involved. See you in Morrison.

I have driven by those formations in Aspen Park and thought about them many times.

I have a lot of fun old photos from climbs done at Eagle Cliffs as well as N. Turkey Creek. One of these days I'll get some up on the Morrison/Evergreen page. It's sad about Turkey Creek, it was a really good little top roping/bouldering area. Some hard routes got done there. A very
solid 5.12 TR was done there in 1978. That's a area that would be fun to have back. Totally unique rock to the front range as far as I know.

Thanks for the kind words Rick. Not climbing trad is no sacrifice since it makes my wife too nervous, there's plenty of fun to be had on sport routes, and I don't scare myself with the inevitable sketchy move above sketchy protection.

Greg are you a Twombly as in the Colorado College Twombly's?

Good thread guys, keep it going I'll post later ! K?

K Olaf

Yes, Vern Twombly graduated CC in the 1940's and had many FA's in the Garden of the Gods, Cirque and Crags on Pikes Peak. My younger brother Vern, ski racer, Harvard PhD in Molecular Genetics, now professor at University of Pittsburgh, graduated CC in 78. Wife Mary DVM, Board Certified orthopedic surgeon, graduated CC 1976. Daughter Becky now at CC. Also my sister Penny, brother in law Karl, sister in law Nancy...even my grandfather James worked on the construction of Palmer Hall in the 30's.

I don't suppose you know Roger Felch, an old colleague of mine, great skier (ski patrol at Winter Park). I think he graduated around 76 and then went and got PhD in geophysics at Penn State. He grew up on a ranch up Troublesome Gulch Rd. out of Kittredge.

The name sounds familiar, and as a 1975 graduate in geology and geophysics it sounds like we must have crossed paths but I dont remember him specifically. Steve Hong and Ed Webster were at CC at the time, and Earl Wiggins, Billy Westbay and Doug Snively were all active in the Garden of the Gods, but I wasnt in their league.

Great point Keven!
sorta like some of our surf spots
Shhh! cousin you got privilege!

Greg my brother went to CC with Vern. I arrived in 81 but several of my partners did know him. The Boucher Twombly route at the Garden is one of the classics. Julie Boucher was a classmate of mine and a friend as well. Her parents are real pillars of the AMC and CC and her brother is the best! Nice to meet you.

And honestly Kevin, a thread like this keeps people off the illegal crags.