This is the area that holds the classic Right to Flight/The Nose(5.9) trad climb. Also, this is a good place to rappel down by Cruise Control(5.7)
Approach from above using guidebook or beta from someone who has been there. You can also use the walkdown on the west side of the lodge and follow the wall until you reach the obvious overhanging climb The Nose.
6 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Crag Central
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crag Central:
Junior Achievement 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Cruise Control 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 45'
Right to Flight/ The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 80'
Sonya Come Home 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 55'
French Connection 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 50'
Viva Las Vegas 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 65'
Featured Route For Crag Central
Right to Flight/ The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central
A mega classic for sure! As overhanging as this one is the climbing never gets as difficult as it looks. It is committing and scary on lead but it protects well and the holds are all there. Starts off climbing up easy terrain up to the roof. Plug in some cams or whatever and climb out on the diving board and go for the top. Very fun!! If you fall on the final head wall you will catch major air. - NOTE- It is hard to clean this route when the leader tops out and is best to anchor for the top and ...[more] Browse More Classics in AR
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