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Techweeny Buttress
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Crackula 
Crankenstein 

Crackula 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Leonard, David Dunlap, 1986
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 1,926
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007
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Matt cruising the final hand crack to the summit.

Description 

Look for the obvious left facing corner, just north of the clean face.

P1: (5.8) Climbs intermittent cracks to a dihedral, followed by a slight bulge. Continue on easy ground and over a few ledges. Belay at a large ledge below a wide crack. (Large gear needed for the belay, #4 Camelot comes in handy, but not necessary)

P2: (5.8) Climb up the wide crack, til its possible to step right onto the face. Continue up and right to the corner of a small roof. Use a short crack to pull around the roof and continue up through intermittent cracks and face to the top of the formation.


Location 

Route starts in a obvious dihedral at the left end of Techweeny Buttress


Protection 

Small rack to a #4 Camalot (for P1 belay).



Photos of Crackula Slideshow Add Photo
Tamara leaving P1 belay alcove.  Some climbers head straight up from belay alcove.  The cleaner pitch angles out right...as seen in photo.
Tamara leaving P1 belay alcove. Some climbers hea...
Tamara moving through the routes crux on P2
Tamara moving through the routes crux on P2
Ryan starting up Pitch 1.
Ryan starting up Pitch 1.
Comments on Crackula Add Comment
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By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2008

I think we may have got off route on the 2nd pitch on this climb, we worked left up easy ground to a dihedral with a pretty hard move just below a piton and continued up easier gound to the top. The hard move in the dihedral can catch you off guard. Great climb though, can't wait to climb the actual route.

By mattb19
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Are the hangers on the top of the feature the top of the route? Can you rap it? After doing Yucca Flower Tower we went over and thought we would just see if we could rap in and went off the hangers at the top. We ended up in some death gully with lots of lose rock. We saw a sling in the gully as well that appeared that someone else tried to rap there. We got our ropes stuck so we never got to see if that was the way to go.

By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2008

MattB; it sounds like you could of been somewhere by Big-T...were you near/above Bush Shark by chance? Crackula is best approached by hiking down echo canyon from the La-Luz junction for approx 5 minutes...to the base of the formation.

By mattb19
Jul 22, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Thanks Chuck and Tamara you are correct.

By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Sep 17, 2008

As Ryan said we got a little off route, but the correct route is awesome. The second pitch has some good exposure so find a solid hold and lean out for a great view. Good pro throughout the entire climb but watch out for little $&*@ heads that like to kick rocks off the edge of the top...

By Amy Ballard
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I do the second pitch by stepping to the right just above the belay, working up the easy ledges about 20 ft., then stepping left across a crack to easy ground leading to the top.
If you could only stack Crackula's first pitch with Estrellita and the second pitch of Excitable Boys into one single climb...

By Orlando
Sep 29, 2009

Definitely go right on P2 and stay right all the way through the roof crux, as shown in C&T's photos.
Really nice. It's been awhile since I've been on Estrellita, but I'll go so far as to make the blasphemous comment that this route may be better overall...let the stoning begin.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Maybe P2 can be thought of as the Gold-i-Locks pitch. If one climbed P1 and found that it ...

a) ... wasn't spicy enough, trend up and left to climb the obvious dihedral;
b) ... was just right, go ~straight up until can move right onto the face, go up, and then escape the roof on the right;
c) ... was a little too spicey, climb like 'b' except escape the roof on the left.

Disclaimer: I have neither done 'a' nor is my advice always well thought out. ;-)