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Eagle Lake Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Barney Rubble T 
Blockbuster T 
Buster Brown T 
Changeling T 
Crackula T 
Flight Simulator T 
Hairline T 
Learn to Fly S 
Master of Disaster T 
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 
Off The Wall S 
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Trust is a Must T,S 
Unkown Chimney S 

Crackula 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Corbett, Andy Doehring, 1979. FFA: Rick Cashner, Bill Serniuk, 1979.
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Rick Cashner on the first free ascent of "Crackula...

Description 

This climbs a crack on the right of a boulder cave.


Location 

Walk up past "Off The Wall' to a prominent boulder cave.


Protection 

Pro to 2".



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An excellent & worthy climb.
An excellent & worthy climb.
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By 426
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome route...bring some good technique.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great crack that requires technique to get through the crux as there are no face holds. Middle of the route takes slung features and then a thin face move to top out. Great route! Biggest thing I took was a #2 camalot, but you could place a 3, or even a 4 on this route.

Oh yeah, if you think it's .9, you're in for a surprise.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is no 5.9. I thought Buster Brown was easier but then again fingery cruxs are not my forte.

By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 15, 2011

Bring a 4 inch cam for the top

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Down a musty corridor in time leading to a faded memory of what is more than likely a different route, this route is a 5.9. Gotta love Blitzo!

The crux has bomber locks but I feel like the foot jam you get at that point levers you out of them somewhat. Consequently, the low crux on this route feels a bit burly, but it's soon over.

The top of this route looks like a real pile but is actually pretty interesting climbing. You won't get bored. Pro up to a #3 or #4 camalot will work out pulling around the bulge.

By Blitzo
Jan 15, 2012

It was a good day when we did the first free ascent. Earlier we did a new route called "Horny". We named it that because we saw a couple getting it on next to the stream. They were quick and unexciting. Then we came across a bag of weed, bagged a FFA and had a swell day!